Cabo Dos Bahías: Patagonia's Quiet Penguin Cape

Cabo Dos Bahías protects one of Chubut's most accessible Magellanic penguin colonies, 28 km south of Camarones on a gravel road. The reserve covers just 160 hectares, yet it packs in penguins, sea lions, guanacos and a coastal trail system you can walk in half a day.

Most visitors treat it as a detour from Punta Tombo. That is a mistake. Cabo Dos Bahías receives a fraction of the crowds, and the boardwalks put you within a few feet of nesting birds without a queue in sight. Come between September and March, bring cash for the entrance fee, and plan on three to four hours if you like to linger.

Getting There and Orientation

By car from Camarones

The drive starts at Moreno Street in Camarones and follows Provincial Route 1 south for roughly 28 km. The first stretch is paved, then turns to ripio — washboard gravel that demands patience. Locals keep it under 50 km/h, not just for the suspension but because guanacos and maras bolt across the road without warning. I passed Caleta Sara, a small inlet with a nautical club, about 20 minutes in; it is a decent spot to stretch your legs before the final approach.

A secondary road branches left about 6.5 km before the reserve entrance, and the last 19 km roll through open steppe with the Atlantic flashing on your right. After rain, the surface turns slick and rutted. A standard sedan can usually manage it in dry weather, but a vehicle with decent ground clearance removes the stress entirely.

By public transport

There is no bus to the reserve gate. The nearest practical approach is a bus from Puerto Madryn or Trelew to Garayalde, then a taxi for the remaining distance — a combination that takes five to six hours and costs roughly $20–42 depending on the route. From Comodoro Rivadavia, 192 km away, the drive is longer but the road is straightforward. Most travelers base themselves in Camarones and drive down for the morning.

When you arrive

The entrance sits at the end of the access road, with a ranger station, restrooms and nothing else. No café, no shop, no water refill. The reserve opens daily from 8:00 to 20:00, though the ticket window may close earlier in low season. Fees are tiered for Chubut residents, Argentine nationals and foreign visitors, and they change with inflation — check the official provincial site or the Camarones tourism office for current rates. Tickets can be bought at the gate in cash or paid by QR code at the tourism office in town. Bring small bills.

What to See and How to Walk It

The penguin colony

Magellanic penguins start arriving in September. Males claim and tidy burrows first, pairs reunite, and by October the colony is in full swing. Chicks hatch from November, and the fluffy juveniles waddle around through January before the adults head back to sea. By April the site is quiet again. The boardwalk loops over the nesting ground, and you can stand inches above a bird without disturbing it — a proximity that feels almost rude the first time.

The colony here is smaller than Punta Tombo's, but that is exactly the point. On my visit in late October I shared the walkway with six other people. At Punta Tombo, the same week, tour buses unload by the dozen.

Sea lions and birdlife

A short trail leads to the cliff edge above a South American sea lion haul-out. The animals lounge on the rocks below, and the smell arrives before the view does. Southern elephant seals turn up occasionally, though they are not guaranteed. On the water, look for kelp gulls, cormorants and, in spring, the occasional southern right whale offshore.

Inland, the steppe delivers guanacos in family groups, Patagonian grey foxes and maras — a large rodent that looks like a cross between a hare and a small deer. The reserve's "Arroyo" interpretive trail explains how freshwater, saltwater and grassland ecosystems meet in this narrow coastal strip. Signage is in Spanish, but the diagrams are clear enough without translation.

Caleta Sara and the surrounding coast

Shortly before the reserve, Caleta Sara offers a sheltered beach and a look at the local fishing boats. It is not a destination in itself, but it breaks up the drive and gives you a calm-water option if the wind at the cape is doing its usual 40 km/h impression. The whole loop from Camarones to the reserve and back makes an easy half-day, or a full one if you stop at every viewpoint.

Practicalities and Timing

Best season and weather

October to March is the window. September and October bring the first penguins and the most active courtship behavior; November and December give you chicks. January and February are warmest but also windiest, with temperatures that can swing from 8°C in the morning to 25°C by afternoon. Windproof layers matter more than a heavy coat. The reserve stays open year-round, but outside the penguin season there is little reason to make the drive unless you want the coast entirely to yourself.

What to bring

There are restrooms at the entrance and nothing else. Carry water, food, sunscreen and a windbreaker. The boardwalks are flat and easy, but the gravel road and exposed terrain mean sturdy shoes are sensible. Binoculars turn a good visit into a great one — the sea lion colony and offshore islands reward a closer look.

Rules and etiquette

Stay on the boardwalks. The penguins nest in burrows that collapse underfoot, and the rangers enforce the path rules firmly. Keep at least two meters from any animal, even if a penguin waddles toward you. Drones are not welcome. Pack out everything you bring in; there are no bins beyond the entrance.

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does it take to visit Cabo Dos Bahías?

Allow three to four hours including the drive from Camarones. The boardwalk loop itself takes about 45 minutes at an unhurried pace, and the sea lion viewpoint adds another 20 minutes. Half a day is the standard estimate, and it is accurate.

Can I buy tickets at the entrance?

Yes, cash is accepted at the gate, and QR payment is available at the Camarones tourism office. Fees are tiered for provincial residents, Argentine nationals and foreign visitors, and prices change frequently — confirm current rates before you go rather than relying on older figures.

Is the road suitable for a regular car?

In dry weather, yes, with care. The gravel section is 19 km and can be washboarded, and rain makes it slippery. A vehicle with higher clearance is the safer choice, especially outside summer.

When can I see penguins at Cabo Dos Bahías?

The colony is occupied from September through March. Peak viewing is October and November during incubation, and November through January when chicks are visible. By April the birds have returned to sea.