Los Alerces National Park: A 260,000-Hectare Patagonian Reserve

Los Alerces National Park protects 259,822 hectares of Andean forest, lakes and glacier-fed rivers in Chubut Province, about 50 km northwest of Esquel. UNESCO listed it in 2017 for the alerce (Fitzroya cupressoides) stands, and the headline resident is El Abuelo, a tree carbon-dated at more than 2,600 years old. Entry is charged at the gate, roads inside are gravel, and there is no ATM once you pass the entrance — bring cash.

The park runs roughly north to south along Ruta Provincial 71, which links the main lakes: Futalaufquen, Verde, Krüger, Rivadavia and Menéndez. Most visitors base themselves at Villa Futalaufquen, where the visitor center sits, then day-trip outward. Distances are bigger than they look on a map, and driving the full length of Ruta 71 in one go takes the better part of a day.

Getting There and Getting Around

By air and bus via Esquel

Esquel receives flights from Buenos Aires, and from the airport you can reach the park in a taxi, a pre-booked transfer or a tour vehicle. A daily bus service leaves Esquel, stops at Villa Futalaufquen and continues to a handful of points inside the park; the operator arrangement changes seasonally, so confirm departure times the day before. The drive from Esquel to Villa Futalaufquen is 52 km, paved the whole way via Ruta Nacional 259 and Ruta Provincial 71.

The two southern gates

From Trevelin, take Ruta Provincial 71 north into the park's southern sector. From Cholila, you approach via Ruta Nacional 40 through Esquel. Both central and southern access points are normally open, but Ruta 71 between Portada Norte and Quebrada del León is the stretch most often restricted — check status before committing to a long detour. Local reports in early 2026 confirmed the Centro and Sur accesses operating while that northern link stayed limited.

Driving inside the park

Once past the gate, surfaces turn to ripio (gravel). Speeds drop to 30-40 km/h on the washboard sections, and a 4x4 is not essential but a low-clearance city car will scrape. Fuel up in Esquel or Trevelin; there is no service station inside. Cell signal is unreliable throughout, and Wi-Fi exists only around the main information center at Lago Futalaufquen.

What to See and Do

The Alerzal Milenario and El Abuelo

This is the excursion people come for. A boat crosses Lago Menéndez — roughly 45 minutes on the water — to Puerto Nuevo, where a guided walk climbs through Valdivian rainforest to the grove. The trail has rope-assisted sections and narrow wooden stairs, and the total outing, including the return crossing, runs just under four hours. Group sizes are capped, so book through an Esquel or Trevelin operator in advance; January departures sell out. The walk itself is rated low difficulty, but it is not accessible for wheels.

Short trails from Villa Futalaufquen

Not every hike needs a full day. The cave-painting trail starts 2.5 km from the villa, reaches an overhang with ancient rock art, then climbs ten minutes to a viewpoint — 40 minutes round trip, low difficulty. A flora interpretive path takes about 30 minutes. Laguna Larga is a 4 km walk along a vehicle track, four hours return, easy-to-moderate. These are the trails to use when weather closes the higher routes.

Cerro El Dedal and the glacier viewpoints

Cerro El Dedal tops out at 1,916 m and takes about six hours round trip from the Villa Futalaufquen area, starting near the Cascada trail. It is well marked but steady climbing. In the southern sector, a low-difficulty path leads to viewpoints over the Torrecillas Glacier and Lago Menéndez; a three-day traverse links mountain refuges through old alerce forest for those equipped for it.

Water, fish and horses

Lakes here hold rainbow and brown trout, and fly fishing draws a dedicated crowd — a license is required and regulations are catch-and-release in most waters. Kayak rentals and guided lake trips operate out of Villa Futalaufquen in summer. Horseback rides are arranged through local providers rather than the park administration.

Tickets, Seasons and Practical Rules

Opening hours and fees

Summer hours run 9:00 to 20:00, winter 9:00 to 17:00, and the park is open every day of the year. The visitor center at Villa Futalaufquen opens Monday to Saturday, 8:00 to 14:00, closed Sunday. Fees are tiered by nationality and residency and are indexed to inflation, so treat any figure you read online as indicative: foreign adults have been charged in the region of AR$35,000, Argentine residents roughly AR$15,000, with lower rates for students and Chubut residents. A 50% discount applies on a second visit within 72 hours, and multi-day passes exist. Payment has recently been enforced on weekends and through the winter holidays, a shift from earlier free-winter policies. Check the official Administración de Parques Nacionales site for current rates.

When to go

December to March is the window for everything: all roads open, boat excursions running, long daylight of up to 16 hours, highs around 21°C and lows near 9°C. January is peak — warmest, busiest, priciest. February is nearly as good with slightly thinner crowds. Autumn (March to May) brings color and quiet, though higher trails begin closing late in the season. Winter (June to September) means snow, limited services and skiing at La Hoya nearby, not inside the park itself. Midsummer horseflies are genuinely irritating; pack repellent.

Camping and fire rules

Four designated campgrounds operate inside the park, including Camping Los Maitenes on the lakeshore with domes and a restaurant. Wild camping is prohibited — you must use an enabled site. Open fire is banned throughout, and rangers enforce it strictly, particularly during dry spells. Falling branches are a real hazard in forested sites, so look up before pitching. Register your route at the visitor center if you are heading out on longer trails, and tell someone your return time.

Frequently Asked Questions

How long do I need in Los Alerces National Park?

Two full days is the realistic minimum: one for the Alerzal Milenario boat-and-walk excursion, one for driving Ruta 71 and hitting the short trails around Villa Futalaufquen. Three days lets you add Cerro El Dedal or the southern glacier viewpoints without rushing the gravel roads.

Can I visit without a car?

Yes, but your range shrinks sharply. The daily bus from Esquel covers Villa Futalaufquen and a few stops, and organized full-day tours from Esquel or Trevelin include pickup around 9:30 and return near 18:30. Independent travelers relying on the bus cannot easily reach the southern sector.

Is the Alerzal Milenario excursion included in the entrance fee?

No. The park entrance fee is separate, and the boat crossing plus guided walk is booked through a licensed operator, typically packaged from Esquel at around USD 80-120 including navigation. Reserve several days ahead in January and February.

What should I bring that people forget?

Cash in small bills for the gate and campgrounds, since there is no ATM. Warm layers even in summer — temperatures swing widely between sun and shade at this altitude. Sturdy shoes for the rope-and-stair sections of the alerce trail, and insect repellent for midsummer.

Are the trails accessible for wheelchairs?

The visitor center and the Villa Futalaufquen trail are marked accessible. Most other routes, including the Alerzal Milenario with its stairs and rope sections, are not. Gravel roads and uneven forest paths make the park difficult for mobility equipment beyond those two sites.