Los Arrayanes National Park: Argentina's Cinnamon Forest

Los Arrayanes National Park protects the world's only remaining pure stand of arrayán trees, a 1,796-hectare reserve on the Quetrihué Peninsula in Neuquén Province. The famous grove sits at the southern tip, roughly 12 km on foot from the Villa La Angostura trailhead, and the oldest trunks there are estimated at more than 650 years old.

The trees are the reason people come. Luma apiculata — arrayán in Spanish, kelümilla in Mapudungun — grows cinnamon-orange bark that peels in cool patches, so the trunks look like they have been dipped in white and rust paint. Their wood twists into candelabra shapes, and the canopy keeps its leaves all year, which is why the Mapuche name for the peninsula means "place of the arrayanes."

Getting There and Getting Around

By boat from Villa La Angostura or Bariloche

The fastest route is by water. Catamarans leave Bahía Mansa or Bahía Brava in Villa La Angostura and reach the park dock in about 30 minutes across Nahuel Huapi Lake. From Bariloche, a longer cruise — roughly two hours each way — often combines the forest with a stop at Victoria Island and Puerto Anchorena.

Boat access has a practical catch: you land at the southern tip, walk the 800-meter wooden boardwalk loop through the grove, and re-board. That loop takes about 30 minutes at an unhurried pace, and it is the only way to see the densest concentration of trees if your knees or schedule rule out the long trail. Services thin out in winter, when sailings depend on wind and lake conditions; early boats in summer beat the midday crowd, which is worth the alarm clock.

On foot or by bike from Villa La Angostura

The land route starts at the Quetrihué information center at Bahía Quintupuray, about 12 km from central Villa La Angostura along the road to the peninsula. The senda is a mixed pedestrian and cycling path — 11 to 12 km one way depending on how you measure the final approach — with a steep, stepped climb for the first stretch and a gentler roll after that.

Cyclists must wear helmets (mandatory, and rangers check), and the first few kilometers involve pushing the bike up stairs rather than riding it. Bikes can be rented in Villa La Angostura. Distances are one-way, so plan for a 24 km round trip on foot, which most people cover in three hours each direction at a steady pace with photo stops.

By car from Bariloche

San Carlos de Bariloche's airport is the nearest with commercial flights, 85 km south of Villa La Angostura and roughly 88 km from the trailhead. From Bariloche, buses run to Villa La Angostura in about 90 minutes, and from town you can take a taxi to the park entrance or arrange a shuttle. If you drive, parking is at the information center, not at the forest itself.

Opening Hours, Fees, and Booking Rules

Entry windows vary by season

This is not a park you can wander into whenever you like. Hikers must enter before 12:00 and leave before 16:00 in winter, with later exit deadlines in summer, around 18:00 to 19:00 depending on the month. The gate hours are commonly listed as 9:00 to 15:00 for drive-in access, and rangers enforce the cutoff because the trail has no lighting and rescue is slow.

Register at the information center at the peninsula's start even if you arrive by boat — the record is mandatory and it is how staff know who is still on the trail when weather turns. Winds here are serious enough that the park administration periodically issues caution notices about falling branches and trees.

Fees and what they cover

Access is ticketed for the forest sector; walking only as far as the viewpoints has historically been free, while the boardwalk into the grove requires payment. Foreign adult rates have been reported in the range of 2,300 pesos, with lower national and resident tariffs and discounts for children, students, and seniors. Fees are subject to change — check the official site for current rates before you go.

Boat excursions are priced separately and vary widely by operator and route. If you combine a Bariloche cruise with Victoria Island, expect a full-day package; the forest stop itself is usually 50 minutes.

Winter and shoulder-season limits

From May through September, schedules and activities can be reduced. The catamaran may still run, but the trail is not always open for hiking, and snow can close the upper sections. Call ahead or check the park's social channels the morning of your visit rather than trusting a printed guidebook.

What to See and How to Plan Your Day

The boardwalk loop

At the southern port, a raised wooden circuit of about 800 meters threads through trunks that lean over the path. Some specimens are broad enough that two people could not link hands around them. The walkway protects the shallow root system, which is fragile and easily compacted — stay on the planks, and do not step over the rail even for a photograph.

The loop is short but slow-going in practice, because every few meters there is another trunk worth stopping for. Budget 30 to 45 minutes.

The long trail and viewpoints

Hiking from Bahía Quintupuray passes La Patagua lagoon and several miradores over the lake before entering the grove. The path is well built and suitable for families, though the initial stair section is steep enough that trekking poles help. There is little interpretive signage on the flora, which is a fair criticism from repeat visitors — bring your own notes or take a guided walk if you want context.

The most efficient itinerary for fit travelers: take the boat one way, walk back 12 km, and use the time saved for the lagoon and viewpoints. Doing it in reverse works too, but you will hit the stairs at the end of the day when your legs are tired. I would choose a sunny morning for the boat and hike back in the afternoon light.

What to bring and what to expect

Patagonian weather here is cold and wet for much of the year, with winter daily averages around 3°C and summer around 14°C; annual precipitation exceeds 1,100 mm, falling mostly between May and August. January to March brings the clearest skies and the most reliable boat schedule, with daytime highs of 15°C to 22°C. April delivers autumn color on the peninsula that few visitors plan for.

Wear proper shoes with grip, since the beginning of the trail is steep and the wooden walkway gets slick. Pack layers, water, and food, because facilities are minimal. Mobile signal is unreliable across most of the protected area — tell someone your plan before you lose coverage.

Rules that rangers actually enforce

Pets, drones, and water skiing are prohibited in the national park. Fires are banned, and the fire restriction in Los Arrayanes and neighboring Nahuel Huapi has been extended into 2026 — only designated safe-fire areas in established campgrounds are exempt. Take all waste out with you, do not feed wildlife, and keep to marked paths. Life jackets are compulsory on any boat activity.

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does it take to visit Los Arrayanes National Park?

Half a day covers the boat ride and the 800-meter boardwalk loop; a full day covers the 24 km round-trip hike or a bike ride plus the forest. If you walk one way and return by boat, allow about six hours from Villa La Angostura.

Can you visit the park without a boat?

Yes. The land trail from Bahía Quintupuray is open to hikers and cyclists, but you must register at the information center and enter before 12:00. The first section is steep stairs, so cyclists should expect to push their bikes for the first couple of kilometers.

Is the park open year-round?

It is open all year, but May through September brings reduced hours, possible snow, and weather-dependent boat service. Winter hikers must exit by 16:00, and the trail can close without notice during high winds.

How much does entry cost for foreign visitors?

Foreign adults have been charged around 2,300 pesos for the forest sector, with cheaper national and resident rates and discounts for children and students. Prices change with inflation — confirm the current tariff at the entrance or on the official parks site.

Is the forest worth it if I have limited time in Patagonia?

If you are already in Villa La Angostura, yes — the grove is unlike anything else in Argentina, and the half-day boat option fits into a tight schedule. If you would have to sacrifice a day in Bariloche or the Seven Lakes Route to fit it in, the boardwalk loop alone may feel thin, so pair it with the hike or the Victoria Island cruise.