Upsala Glacier: A Patagonian Ice Giant Seen by Boat

The Upsala Glacier is accessible only by water, and boat tours typically spend 7 to 8 hours on Lake Argentino to reach it. It is one of the largest glaciers in South America, covering roughly 765 square kilometers — about three times the area of the far more famous Perito Moreno. Most visitors see it on a full-day cruise from Puerto Punta Bandera, 47 kilometers from El Calafate, sailing among icebergs that calve from its fractured face.

Getting There and Orientation

Location and geography

Upsala sits at the northwestern end of Lake Argentino's North Arm, inside Los Glaciares National Park in Santa Cruz Province, Argentina. It flows down from the Southern Patagonian Ice Field, the third-largest freshwater reserve on Earth. The glacier's tongue extends into a deep valley below lake level, so a large part of its mass is hidden underwater — which is one reason estimates of its total volume vary.

The closest town is El Calafate, roughly 80 kilometers from the park boundary. All commercial access is by boat; there is no road, trailhead, or viewing platform that reaches the ice directly.

How to get there

Almost every traveler reaches Upsala on an organized tour. Boats leave from Puerto Punta Bandera, a 45- to 60-minute drive from El Calafate. Tours include hotel pickup and round-trip transfers, and most operators sell the national park entry separately — as of 2025, foreign adults pay 45,000 Argentine pesos, while Argentine adults pay 15,000 pesos. Fees change, so confirm current rates on the official park website or at the gate.

Two main excursion formats exist. The classic "Todo Glaciares" cruise sails the North Arm, enters the Upsala Channel, then continues to the Spegazzini Channel and disembarks at Spegazzini Base. A second option combines the boat ride with a landing at Estancia Cristina, a historic Patagonian farmstead, followed by a 4x4 climb to the only land-based viewpoint over the glacier. The estancia trekking version runs about 12.5 hours and costs from roughly US$300, not including park entry.

Costs and booking

Seeing the glacier itself costs nothing — the expense is transport and park admission. Sightseeing cruises start at around US$260 per person, and guided land-based hikes that include a distant glacier view start at about US$130. Reserve at least one day ahead; in high season (December and January), book a week or more in advance, as boats fill quickly.

On the Water: What the Cruise Actually Delivers

The route and the icebergs

The boat crosses the Devil's Mouth (Boca del Diablo), a narrow natural channel into the North Arm, then turns into the Upsala Channel. This is the part people remember. Icebergs broken from the glacier's face drift through the channel — some the size of a bus, a few reported at 30 to 40 meters above the waterline. The vessel does not approach the glacier wall; safety rules keep commercial boats at a distance, so the closest views are often of the floating ice rather than the ice front itself.

I found the iceberg field more striking than the glacier face. The scale is hard to process from photos: pale blue slabs drifting past, some rolling audibly as they melt. Keep your camera ready on the bow — the light on the ice is best in the morning, and the wind is fierce enough that a hat with a strap is not optional.

Duration and daily rhythm

A standard all-glaciers cruise runs about 7 hours on the water, with total excursion time around 10 hours including transfers. Departures are typically 8:30 a.m. from September to April, shifting to 9:30 a.m. from April to August. In winter (May to August), the same route operates every other day rather than daily, and boats carry fewer passengers — a real advantage if you dislike crowds.

Expect long stretches of sitting. The first 60 to 90 minutes are mostly open water and small ice fragments; the scenery builds gradually. Bring lunch — many tours sell food on board, but quality varies, and a boxed lunch from El Calafate is cheaper.

The Estancia Cristina alternative

If you want to see Upsala from land, the Estancia Cristina excursion is the only game in town. The route sails the same channel but lands at the farm, where a 4x4 truck climbs a rugged track to the Mirador del Glaciar Upsala. The view is distant — the glacier appears across a valley — and the walking portion is rated high difficulty. This is not a substitute for the boat cruise; it is a different angle, one that adds a ranch visit and a walk to a waterfall if you choose the shorter option.

Practical Details and Timing

Best season and weather

November through March is the recommended window: mild temperatures, long daylight, and reliable daily departures. December and January are the warmest and busiest. Winter sailings (May–August) are possible every other day and offer snow-dusted peaks and thinner crowds, though cold on deck is severe — expect near-freezing wind chill even on sunny days.

Dress in layers. The wind off the ice is chilly even in summer, and the boat's open decks offer no shelter. Sunscreen, sunglasses, and a hat are essential; the glare off water and ice is intense.

What to bring and what to skip

Passport or ID is required for park entry and boarding. Cash in Argentine pesos helps for park fees if you have not prepaid online. Large luggage is not permitted on most tours — store bags at your hotel in El Calafate. Wheelchair access varies by vessel; the newer catamarans used on the all-glaciers route have ramps and accessible decks, but confirm when booking.

Combining with Perito Moreno

The two glaciers are often paired, and they reward different expectations. Perito Moreno is stable, accessible by road, and viewed from walkways and a short boat trip; Upsala is retreating, boat-only, and seen from a distance. If you have two days in El Calafate, do Perito Moreno first (it is easier and closer), then Upsala — the contrast makes both more interesting. A single day cannot comfortably cover both; the full-day Upsala cruise already consumes 10 hours.

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does it take to see the Upsala Glacier?

Plan a full day. The boat spends about 7 hours on the water, and door-to-door from El Calafate is roughly 10 hours. The Estancia Cristina trekking version runs about 12.5 hours because it adds a landing and a 4x4 ascent.

Can you walk on the Upsala Glacier?

No. Unlike Perito Moreno, Upsala has no ice trekking. The glacier is retreating and its face is unstable, and all commercial vessels must keep a safe distance. The only land access is a distant viewpoint reached by 4x4 from Estancia Cristina.

Is the national park entrance fee included in the tour price?

Usually not. Park entry is paid separately — 45,000 pesos for foreign adults and 15,000 pesos for Argentine adults in 2025 — and can be purchased at the gate or through the official park website. Cruise fares starting around US$260 generally cover transport and the boat only.

What is the best month to visit Upsala Glacier?

November through March offers the most reliable weather and daily departures. December and January are warmest but busiest. If you want fewer passengers and do not mind cold, the every-other-day winter sailings from May to August are a quieter alternative.

How close does the boat get to the glacier?

Closer than you might expect from photos, but not to the ice wall. Safety regulations keep tour boats several hundred meters back, so the floating icebergs in the Upsala Channel often provide the most dramatic views. Binoculars help — the face is wide and the detail is fine.