Hill of Seven Colours: Purmamarca's Painted Mountain

The Hill of Seven Colours (Cerro de los Siete Colores) rises directly behind Purmamarca's main square, and you can see its full striped face from the village without paying a peso. The mountain sits at roughly 2,200 metres in the Quebrada de Humahuaca, a UNESCO-listed gorge in Jujuy Province, northwest Argentina. Its bands of red, pink, orange, green and purple come from different mineral sediments laid down over millions of years, then tilted and eroded into the shape you see today. The best light hits the slope between sunrise and about 9am — by late afternoon the face falls into backlit shadow, which is why most day tours from Salta arrive before noon.

Getting There and Orientation

From Salta or Jujuy by bus or car

Purmamarca is about 65 kilometres northwest of San Salvador de Jujuy via Route 9 and Route 52, a drive of roughly 1.5 hours. From Salta, the journey takes 3 to 4 hours by bus or car, depending on stops. Regular buses run from both cities, and the village is small enough that you walk everywhere once you arrive. If you are driving, the RN 52 passes within metres of the town centre, so you cannot miss the hill — it fills the northern skyline.

Organised tours vs independent travel

Day tours from Salta typically combine Purmamarca with the Salinas Grandes salt flats and the Cuesta de Lipán pass, which climbs above 4,000 metres. Those tours stop at a viewpoint on the approach road before dropping you in the village for 1 to 2 hours. Independent travellers have more flexibility: stay overnight in Purmamarca and you get the hill at dawn without the bus crowds. I found the village far more enjoyable after 6pm, when the day-trippers leave and the adobe streets empty out.

Walking the Hill and Nearby Trails

The free village viewpoints

The cheapest and most direct view is from the main plaza itself — the hill fills the frame behind the market stalls. A short walk to the Mirador El Porito, a rocky outcrop at the edge of the town centre, gives you a slightly elevated angle over the rooftops and the coloured slope beyond. It is a five-minute stroll from the square and costs nothing. The Paseo de los Colorados trail also starts near El Porito; this is the path that curves around the back of the hill.

The Paseo de los Colorados circuit

The Paseo de los Colorados is a roughly one-hour loop that takes you along the base of the hill and through desert scrub. Entry costs about 300 Argentine pesos (fees are subject to change — check locally for current rates), and the route is gentle, gaining only around 100 metres. You will pass cardón cacti, dry riverbeds and then a section where the rock walls close in. The colours here are duller than the main face, but the trail is quiet and gives a sense of the geology up close. Wear trainers or hiking shoes; the path is dusty and uneven in places.

Longer hikes and altitude

Purmamarca sits at 2,200 metres, and the surrounding trails climb to around 2,650 metres. That is not extreme, but if you have just arrived from Buenos Aires or Salta, take the first day slowly. Local guides offer interpretive walks that cover the geology, archaeology and medicinal plants of the region; these are not strenuous but are paced for the altitude. The GetYourGuide listings note that some hikes are unsuitable for people with heart or respiratory conditions, pregnant travellers, or children under 10 — a sensible precaution at this elevation.

Practical Details for Your Visit

Best time of day and season

Arrive before 9am for the sharpest colours and the fewest people. The dry season runs from April to November, with stable weather and little rain; June and July bring cold nights but clear skies. Daytime temperatures in the dry months range from about 3°C at dawn to 20°C in the afternoon, so layers are essential. The hill is free to view at any hour, but the Paseo de los Colorados is best walked in daylight.

Altitude and health

At 2,200 metres, altitude sickness is uncommon but possible, especially if you rush. Drink water steadily, avoid alcohol on the first night, and give yourself a few hours to acclimatise before any uphill walking. The village sells coca tea and coca sweets, which locals use for mild symptoms. If you have high blood pressure or a heart condition, consult your doctor before visiting the region — many organised tours to the nearby salt flats (4,150 metres) explicitly exclude people with these conditions.

Costs and facilities

The hill itself costs nothing. Expect to pay 300 pesos for the Paseo de los Colorados trail, and budget 5,000–10,000 pesos per night for accommodation in the village (prices rise in peak season). The artisan market on the plaza sells woven textiles and ceramics; bring small notes for cash purchases. There are no ATMs in Purmamarca, so withdraw cash in Jujuy or Salta before you arrive. Public toilets are scarce — use the facilities at cafes or the bus station.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is the Hill of Seven Colours free to visit?

Yes. The mountain is visible from anywhere in Purmamarca and there is no entry fee to see it from the village or the main viewpoints. The only paid element is the Paseo de los Colorados trail, which costs around 300 pesos (subject to change).

How long do you need in Purmamarca?

One night is enough to see the hill at sunrise and walk the Paseo de los Colorados. If you want to explore the surrounding trails or use the village as a base for the Salinas Grandes, two nights gives you a more relaxed pace. Most day tours allocate only 1 to 2 hours in the village, which is tight.

Can you climb the Hill of Seven Colours?

No — there is no sanctioned route to the summit, and the slope is unstable. The Paseo de los Colorados runs around the base, not up the face. Climbing the hill is not permitted and would be dangerous. The best views come from the village and the El Porito viewpoint.

What is the altitude in Purmamarca?

The village sits at 2,200 metres above sea level. The hill rises a few hundred metres higher, and nearby trails reach 2,650 metres. The Salinas Grandes, often combined with a Purmamarca visit, sit at 4,150 metres, so be prepared for a significant altitude jump if you join a tour.

Do you need a tour to see the hill?

No. Independent travellers can reach Purmamarca by regular bus from Salta or Jujuy and walk to the viewpoints on their own. Tours are convenient for combining the hill with the salt flats and the Cuesta de Lipán, but they often rush the village. Staying overnight gives you the best light and the quietest streets.