Garganta del Diablo: Tilcara's Devil's Throat Canyon

The Garganta del Diablo in Tilcara is a narrow canyon cut by the Río Huasamayo, ending in a waterfall of roughly 15 meters. The entrance gate sits at 2,890 meters — about 400 meters above the town square — which makes the final approach the steepest part of the day. Most visitors reach it on a 4 km uphill footpath from the village, or on an 8 km gravel road that ends at a parking area near the gate.

An admission fee is charged by the Ayllu Mama Kolla Indigenous community, which maintains the trail, the signage and the safety rope at the waterfall. Fees are subject to change — check locally for current rates, and carry cash, because card readers fail often at that altitude.

Getting There: Trail, Gravel Road or Remise

Walking from Tilcara

The footpath leaves the edge of town near the bridge over the Río Huasamayo and climbs through cactus slopes and small terraced fields. Budget 1.5 to 2 hours up at a relaxed pace; the return takes around an hour. There is almost no shade, so a 9 AM start matters more than most people expect.

The hike is family-friendly but not flat. Allow for three or four short stops. Guides run the same route as a full excursion, leaving accommodation around 9 AM and returning near 2 PM, which suits anyone who would rather not navigate the trail crossings alone.

Driving the gravel road

The 8 km access road switchbacks up the mountainside to a parking area a few minutes' walk from the entrance hut. It is gravel the whole way, narrow in places, and not something I would want to drive in the dark or after heavy rain. A standard car manages fine in dry weather.

Taxis and remises

Remises wait around Tilcara's main square and will take you up and wait, which removes both the climb and the cliffside driving. For two or three people the cost is usually comparable to a guided tour, and it is the sensible choice if you are short on time or adjusting to the altitude.

The Canyon, the Waterfall and the Entry Rules

Inside the circuit

Beyond the gate, the last kilometre follows the stream bed through a slot of smooth, water-polished rock. You hop from stone to stone across the water several times. In summer, when the river runs high, you may end up wading barefoot. The walls narrow dramatically before opening onto the waterfall and a small mirador.

Entry hours are generally 8:00 to 18:00, though they shift with the season and the community's schedule. The gate is staffed, so arriving after 4 PM leaves you rushing the best section.

The community fee

The Ayllu Mama Kolla community, based about 2 km southeast of Tilcara, administers the whole circuit, including the parajes of El Chorro (the gorge itself) and Alfarcito. The fee is small but mandatory, collected at the hut before the final stretch. Bring small notes; change is scarce.

There are restrooms partway up the route — a genuinely welcome surprise in that dry terrain — but no water taps. Carry at least 1.5 litres per person.

When to Go and What to Bring

Seasons

December to March is the rainy season: the waterfall carries the most volume and the hills turn green, but crossings get awkward and afternoon storms build fast. April and May give you good water, a dry trail and mild temperatures. June to August is cold and clear, with thin flow at the falls but the most reliable footing. September and October are the sweet spot for most travellers.

Practical kit

Grippy shoes are non-negotiable on wet rock. Sunscreen and a hat matter even on overcast days at 2,890 meters. Bring a snack or something for mate at the top — the round trip easily fills four hours. Trekking poles help on the descent, when loose gravel does most of the work.

Go slowly on the climb. Tilcara sits at 2,461 meters and the gate is 400 meters higher; the altitude is what most people underestimate, not the distance.

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does the Garganta del Diablo hike take from Tilcara?

About four hours round trip on foot, including 45 to 60 minutes at the waterfall. The climb is 4 km with roughly 400 meters of gain, so most walkers need 1.5 to 2 hours to reach the gate.

Is there an entrance fee, and can I pay by card?

Yes, the Ayllu Mama Kolla community charges an admission fee at the gate. Pay in cash — card payment is unreliable that far from town. Rates change, so confirm the current amount in Tilcara before setting out.

Can I drive to the waterfall instead of hiking?

An 8 km gravel road reaches a parking area near the entrance hut. It is narrow and winding but passable in a normal car in dry conditions. Remises from the main square are a low-effort alternative.

What is the best month to visit?

April, May, September and October offer the best balance of waterfall volume, dry trail and comfortable temperatures. January and February bring the heaviest flow but also muddy crossings and afternoon storms.