Desierto del Diablo: Argentina's Red Martian Plain

The Desierto del Diablo is a rust-red clay plain on the Salta Puna, roughly 45 km from the village of Tolar Grande and about 3,500 m above sea level. It is free to enter, has no gate, no opening hours and no staff — the only way in is a 4x4 track on Ruta Provincial 27, and the nearest fuel and beds are in Tolar Grande.

Most travelers treat it as a drive-through highlight on the road between Salar de Pocitos and Tolar Grande. That is a mistake if you have the time. The light here changes the color of the ground from brick to blood to a dull copper, and the section known as Las Siete Curvas has a roadside viewpoint that shows the whole plain at once.

Getting There and What the Drive Is Like

From Salta city

The standard route is 357 km to Tolar Grande: National Route 51 through Campo Quijano and the Quebrada del Toro to San Antonio de los Cobres, then Provincial Route 27 across the Salar de Pocitos and into the desert. Allow 8 to 9 hours of actual driving. Bus services do not cover the final stretch, so a rented 4x4 or a guided tour is the realistic option.

Expect the road to be unpaved for the last 180 km or so out of San Antonio de los Cobres. It is graded and generally well marked — motorcyclists do it — but washboard surfaces and high-altitude engine strain slow you down more than the distance suggests.

From Tolar Grande

From the village, head out on Ruta Provincial 27 with the Belgrano railway tracks on your right. At kilometer 23 there is a right-hand turn to the ruins of Estación Km 1506, an abandoned stop on the old Salta–Antofagasta line. Continue on the same road and the landscape opens into the red plain.

Fuel and logistics

Fill up whenever you can. Fuel availability on the Puna is inconsistent and there is nothing between San Antonio de los Cobres and Tolar Grande. Carry water for the whole day, not just the drive — the desert has no shade, no taps, no facilities of any kind.

What You Actually See

The red plain and the labyrinth

The signature feature is the color. Iron-rich clay and fossil dune deposits give the ground an intense red-brown tone that photographs badly in harsh midday sun and beautifully in the hour before sunset. Scattered across the surface are thousands of small clay peaks and gypsum crystal formations, some eroded into shapes that locals compare to Egyptian pyramids.

The area is also called Desierto del Laberinto — Labyrinth Desert — for the zigzag road that threads through the fossil dunes. Geologists date those dunes at around 10 million years old. Walking off the track is possible but the crust is brittle and you will leave footprints that last for years.

Las Siete Curvas viewpoint

Seven switchbacks climb a ridge above the plain and there is a pull-out at the top. This is the single best photo stop on the circuit, and most tour vans skip it because they are running late for Tolar Grande. Stop anyway. The view takes in the full red basin and the volcanic ridgeline behind it.

Wildlife, or the lack of it

Do not expect animals. The aridity is extreme and vegetation is essentially absent. What you will see is a sky so clear that the horizon line feels unnaturally sharp, and at night, if you stay in Tolar Grande, a star field unobstructed by any light source for dozens of kilometers.

Practicalities: Altitude, Weather, Season

Altitude sickness is the real risk

The desert sits above 3,500 m and the approach crosses Abra de Alto Chorrillos at 4,560 m. Guided 4WD trips explicitly exclude pregnant women, children under 10, and anyone with a history of altitude sickness. My advice: give yourself a night in San Antonio de los Cobres (3,775 m) to acclimatize before pushing on, drink more water than feels necessary, and treat a headache that will not shift as a signal to descend rather than push through.

Temperatures swing brutally

Daytime can hit 30 °C; nights on the Puna drop to around -20 °C in winter. Wind is constant and cuts through light layers. Pack a shell, a warm mid-layer, sunglasses with high UV protection, and lip balm. Sunburn happens fast at this elevation even when the air feels cold.

When to go

April to November is the reliable window, with October to December and March to April cited as the sweet spots by the national tourism board. Summer storms from December to February can close the tracks entirely — flash flooding on the Puna is not a theoretical concern, and a washed-out road means a very long wait.

Costs and access status

Entry to the desert is free and there is no reservation system. Guided day and multi-day tours from Salta are the main practical option for visitors without their own vehicle; community-run lodgings and local guides in Tolar Grande can be arranged on arrival, though English is limited. Rates change seasonally — check with the Tolar Grande community tourism office for current prices.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do I need a 4x4 to reach the Desierto del Diablo?

Not strictly for the graded sections of Ruta Provincial 27, but high clearance is essential and a 4x4 is strongly recommended for the washboard and gravel stretches. Rental agencies in Salta generally will not insure standard cars on this route.

How long should I spend at the desert itself?

One to two hours on site is enough for the viewpoints and a short walk. Most visitors pass through in 30 minutes, but the light rewards patience — arriving two hours before sunset gives the best color and the fewest other vehicles.

Can I visit independently without a tour?

Yes, if you have your own vehicle and a full tank. The road is well marked and other travelers do it solo by motorcycle. There is no phone signal for long stretches, so tell someone your plan before leaving Tolar Grande.

Is there anywhere to stay or eat near the desert?

No. The nearest lodging and food are in Tolar Grande, 45 km away, where a handful of community-run guesthouses offer basic rooms. Book ahead in high season and bring cash — card payments are unreliable.

What is the single biggest mistake visitors make?

Underestimating the altitude. Many travelers drive straight from Salta at 1,187 m to the 3,500 m plain in one day, then wonder why they feel dizzy and breathless. Break the climb with a night at San Antonio de los Cobres and the experience improves dramatically.