Polques Hot Springs: Bolivia's High-Altitude Soak

At 4,394 metres on the edge of Laguna Salada, Polques Hot Springs holds water at a steady 29–30 °C while the air above it can drop below freezing before sunrise. That 30-degree contrast — not the water itself — is what you remember. The pools sit inside the Eduardo Avaroa Andean Fauna National Reserve in Potosí department, and almost every three-day Uyuni tour stops here on its third morning, usually between 6 and 8 a.m. You will not be alone, but you will be warm.

Where Polques Hot Springs Sits and How You Reach It

The springs are not in Sajama National Park, despite what some trip plans suggest — they lie roughly 300 kilometres south of Sajama, in the Sud Lípez province near the Chilean border. The confusion is common because both sit on Bolivia's volcanic belt. Polques is fed by the nearby Polques volcano, and the water drains into a small concrete-edged basin on the shore of Laguna Salada, itself part of the larger Salar de Chalviri salt flat.

The only practical way in: a 4×4 tour

There is no public bus. Access is exclusively by 4×4, either on a multi-day circuit from Uyuni (the standard route) or coming the opposite direction from San Pedro de Atacama in Chile. From Uyuni, the drive takes two full days of rough track before you reach the springs, with overnight stops at Laguna Colorada or Huayllajara. Independent drivers do exist, but the roads are unmarked and the high-altitude weather changes fast — a hired vehicle with a local driver is the sane choice.

Distances and drive times that matter

Uyuni to Polques is about 300 km, spread over two days. The springs sit roughly 90 minutes from the Sol de Mañana geyser field, 45 minutes from the Dalí Desert, and two hours from Laguna Verde at the Chilean border. If you are coming from Sajama National Park, expect a full day of driving south through Oruro and Challapata — most travelers do not combine the two in one trip.

What the Soak Is Actually Like

Two small pools, a basic changing shed of concrete blocks, and a café selling hot drinks and snacks. That is the entire facility. The water is warm rather than hot — think bathwater left to cool for ten minutes. At dawn, with frost on the ground and steam curling off the surface, it feels like a luxury. At noon, under a harsh altiplano sun, it feels tepid and slightly sulfurous.

The dawn ritual (and why tours time it that way)

The classic visit happens between 6 and 8 a.m., after a night at a basic refuge nearby. You step out of a Land Cruiser in three layers and a wool hat, change quickly in the shed, and walk 20 metres to the pool. The first minute is cold. The next twenty are blissful. Most tours allow 30 to 40 minutes total, which is plenty — soaking longer at 4,394 metres can leave you lightheaded.

Wildlife and the setting

Andean flamingos feed in the shallows of Laguna Salada, often within sight of the pool. Andean gulls wheel overhead. The volcano Polques rises directly behind the springs, and on clear mornings the steam and the birds and the salt crust make the whole scene feel staged. I have seen photographers ignore the water entirely and spend their slot shooting flamingos against the steam.

Practical Details: Fees, Hours, and What to Bring

Entry to the pools costs 30 BOB per person (about USD 4.50), collected at a small gate. Some older sources list 6 or 15 BOB — those prices are outdated. Hours are loosely 8 a.m. to 6 p.m., but tour groups arrive earlier and the gate is usually manned by 5:30 a.m. for the sunrise crowd. No reservation is needed; you pay on arrival. Fees are subject to change — check with your tour operator for current rates.

What to pack for a 30-degree temperature swing

Bring a swimsuit, a quick-dry towel, and a dry set of warm clothes in a plastic bag. The changing shed has no heat. A hat and sunglasses matter more than you think — the UV at this elevation is brutal even at 7 a.m. Leave valuables in the vehicle. There are toilets, but no showers and no drinking water for sale beyond what the café stocks.

Health and altitude cautions

At 4,394 metres, the air holds roughly 40% less oxygen than at sea level. Soak for 10–20 minutes at first, sit on the edge between dips, and drink water before and after. Getting out wet into cold air is the real risk — dry off fast and layer up. People with heart conditions or untreated hypertension should skip the soak; the combination of heat and thin air strains the system. Pregnant travelers should consult a doctor before visiting.

When to Go and How Polques Fits a Wider Route

The dry season, May through September, brings clear skies and reliable tours. July mornings often start at -5 °C to -10 °C, which makes the steam spectacular. The rainy season (December to March) can close access roads and turn the salt flats into a reflective lake — beautiful, but some operators cancel the Polques stop. June and July are the busiest months, with up to 15 vehicles at the springs by 7 a.m. If you want the pool to yourself, book a private tour and arrive by 5:45 a.m.

Pairing Polques with the reserve's highlights

Most itineraries link the springs with the Sol de Mañana geysers (30 minutes away), the Dalí Desert (45 minutes), and Laguna Colorada (two hours). A sensible order is geysers at first light, Polques for a soak and breakfast, then the Dalí Desert as the light sharpens. Travelers continuing to Chile reach Laguna Verde and the Licancabur volcano border crossing within two hours of the springs.

Sajama versus Polques: which hot spring?

Sajama National Park has its own village hot spring — 10 BOB, 38 °C, and a view of Bolivia's highest peak. It is hotter and cheaper, but far less visited. Polques wins on setting and wildlife; Sajama wins on comfort and solitude. If you have time for only one, Polques is the one on every Uyuni itinerary, but Sajama is the better soak.

Frequently Asked Questions

How much does it cost to enter Polques Hot Springs?

Entry costs 30 BOB per person, paid at the gate. Children under 8 usually enter free, though this is not always enforced. Bring small bills — change for 100 BOB notes is often unavailable early in the morning.

Can I visit Polques Hot Springs without a tour?

Yes, but only with a private 4×4 and driver. There is no public transport, and the route is unmarked. Independent travelers report paying around USD 250–350 per vehicle for a two-day round trip from Uyuni, which includes fuel and driver but not food or park fees.

What is the water temperature at Polques?

The pools hold steady at 29–30 °C year-round. That is warm, not hot — closer to a lukewarm bath. The air temperature at dawn can be below freezing, which makes the water feel hotter than it is.

Is Polques Hot Springs safe for people with high blood pressure?

Consult a doctor first. The combination of 4,394 metres of altitude and warm water can cause dizziness or rapid heartbeat. If you are cleared, keep soaks under 15 minutes and exit slowly.

What should I bring to Polques Hot Springs?

A swimsuit, towel, warm dry clothes, hat, sunglasses, and water. The changing shed is unheated, and the café stocks only basic snacks and hot drinks. Cash for the 30 BOB entry fee is essential.