Exploring the Ancient Baobabs of Kubu Island in Botswana

Navigating the Salt Crust to Sua Pans Rock Outcrop

Kubu Island, known locally as Lekhubu, is a dry granite rock island situated in the southwestern corner of Sua Pan in northern Botswana. It sits at an elevation of approximately 900 meters above sea level and remains one of the most isolated destinations in the Makgadikgadi Pan system.

The 4WD approach from Lethakane

The most common route to reach this outcrop starts in Lethakane, requiring about 100 kilometers of driving through increasingly sandy and eventually salty terrain. Travelers must rely on GPS coordinates because tracks often disappear or multiply after the rainy season, leading drivers toward treacherous soft spots in the pan. A high-clearance 4x4 vehicle is mandatory for this journey—renting a standard SUV or attempting the drive in a sedan will almost certainly result in a costly recovery mission from the nearest town.

Dry season surface conditions

Accessing the island is generally only possible during the dry winter months from May to October. During the summer rains, the surrounding salt pan transforms into a shallow lake or a thick, glue-like mud that can swallow a vehicle to its chassis. Even in the height of the dry season, the crust can be deceptive; staying on established tracks is the only way to avoid breaking through into the wet silt below. Many seasoned overlanders suggest deflating tires slightly to increase the footprint when the surface feels particularly brittle near the island edge.

Ancient Baobabs and Stone Age Archaeology

The island is famous for its concentration of ancient baobabs that cling to the granite boulders, creating a stark contrast against the white salt of Sua Pan. These trees are not just photographic subjects but biological records of the region climate history over several centuries.

Carbon dating the prehistoric trees

Several of the larger baobabs on Kubu Island are estimated to be over 1,000 years old based on carbon dating and growth ring analysis. These trees have survived in an environment with almost no standing fresh water, tapping into deep crevices within the granite to find moisture. The size of their trunks is staggering—some exceeding ten meters in diameter—serving as a living connection to the era when the Great Makgadikgadi Lake still covered this entire 37,000 square kilometer basin.

Stone walls of the late Iron Age

Hidden among the rocks on the southern side of the island are low stone walls that resemble the ruins found at Great Zimbabwe. These structures date back to between 1400 and 1600 AD and are believed to have served as a peripheral settlement or a site for male initiation ceremonies. The Batshweneng people consider the island a sacred site, and visitors often find small offerings like coins or beads left in rock crevices. Seeing these archaeological remains requires a slow walk around the island perimeter, as they blend almost perfectly with the natural granite shards.

Survival Logistics and Community Management

Because Kubu Island is extremely remote, it lacks all basic infrastructure including running water, electricity, or cellular reception. The site is managed by the Gaing-O Community Trust, which ensures that tourism benefits the local residents of Lekhubu and Mmatshumo villages.

Self-sufficiency at Gaing-O campsites

The designated camping areas are basic, providing nothing more than a cleared space and perhaps a long-drop toilet near the entrance. Every visitor must carry at least five liters of water per person per day, along with all fuel and food required for their stay. There is no shop within a two-hour drive, so forgetting a spare tire or a simple tool can turn a trip into a genuine emergency. I have found that the northernmost campsites offer the most privacy, though they are further from the main walking paths.

Entry fees and conservation permits

As of current records, entry fees for international visitors are approximately 150 BWP per person, with additional charges for vehicles and overnight camping. These prices are subject to change—check the official Gaing-O Community Trust site for current rates before departing. Payments are usually made at the gatehouse or in the village of Mmatshumo before you enter the pan area. Bringing exact cash is highly recommended as card machines are non-existent in this part of the Kalahari.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is a 4WD vehicle required to visit Kubu Island?

Yes, a high-clearance 4x4 vehicle is essential for navigating the sandy tracks and the salt crust of Sua Pan. Standard vehicles will likely get stuck in the soft silt or be unable to clear the rocky ridges leading onto the island.

When is the best time of year to see the flamingos?

Flamingos usually arrive at the nearby Sua Pan between January and March if the rains have been sufficient to fill the basin. However, the island itself is often inaccessible by road during these months, so viewing them typically requires a light aircraft charter rather than a self-drive trip.

Are there any facilities or shops on the island?

There are no shops, fuel stations, or water taps on Kubu Island or in the immediate vicinity. Travelers must be entirely self-sufficient, carrying all necessary supplies from Lethakane or Gweta including medical kits and recovery gear.

Can I fly a drone at Kubu Island for photography?

Drone usage in Botswana protected areas and community trusts requires a permit from the Civil Aviation Authority of Botswana and the Department of Wildlife and National Parks. You should secure these documents months in advance, as flying without a permit can lead to heavy fines and equipment confiscation.

How long does it take to drive from Lethakane to Kubu Island?

The 100-kilometer drive usually takes between three and four hours depending on the condition of the tracks. Corrugated roads and sandy sections require a slow pace to prevent vehicle damage or overheating in the desert sun.