Essential Travel Guide to Palapye Botswana

Palapye sits at an elevation of 972 meters on the eastern edge of the Central District, acting as the primary logistics node between Gaborone and Francistown. This industrial town serves as the gateway to the Tswapong Hills, a geological anomaly where permanent waterfalls flow in a semi-arid region. Most travelers recognize the town as a convenient refueling stop on the A1 highway—located roughly 240 kilometers north of the capital—but the surrounding hills contain some of the most significant archaeological and natural sites in Southern Africa.

Historical Landmarks and the Ruins of Old Palapye

Modern Palapye is a relatively recent development, but its predecessor, known as Phalatswe or Old Palapye, was once a massive settlement. Established in 1889 by Khama III, the leader of the Bamangwato people, this site served as the capital for thirteen years until a water shortage forced the population to move to Serowe in 1902. During its peak in the 1890s, historians estimate the settlement supported a population of approximately 30,000 people—though some archaeological estimates for the wider district reach significantly higher. The site was gazetted as a National Monument in 1938 and remains a quiet, evocative place to explore on foot.

The London Missionary Society Church

The most recognizable structure at Old Palapye is the remains of the London Missionary Society church. Constructed between 1891 and 1894 using burnt-red bricks, the front and back gables still stand today against the Tswapong backdrop. It is worth noting that the site is roughly 20 kilometers east of the modern town center—a drive that requires a high-clearance vehicle during the rainy season. Walking through the ruins, you can still find evidence of stone-walled middens and the remnants of a colonial-era prison and market center.

Heritage Protocols and Malaka Village

Accessing Old Palapye usually involves passing through Malaka village. It is a matter of local courtesy to seek permission from the village headman or the designated custodian before exploring the heritage site. This tradition keeps the community involved in the preservation of the ruins and ensures you receive accurate directions to the more obscured rock paintings hidden within the nearby cliffs. The site is unfenced in many areas, so having a local guide helps in identifying the graves of both European settlers and Batswana leaders from the late 19th century.

Natural Wonders of the Tswapong Hills

The Tswapong Hills stretch nearly 70 kilometers toward the Limpopo River, formed from ancient sandstone that traps and slowly releases water. This creates a microclimate that supports lush vegetation and permanent pools, a stark contrast to the surrounding Kalahari sands. The hills are home to a diverse range of wildlife, including leopards, rock dassies, and one of the largest Cape Vulture breeding colonies in Botswana.

Hiking the Goo-Moremi Gorge

Moremi Gorge is the centerpiece of the region's natural attractions, located about 70 kilometers from Palapye. The site is co-managed by the Moremi-Mannonye Conservation Trust and features a series of five waterfalls cascading into deep lagoons. Current entry fees for 2025 include a vehicle charge of 55 BWP, while guided hiking fees range from 80 BWP to 120 BWP per person depending on the distance you choose to trek. The hike to the uppermost falls involves a steep climb and navigating metal gantries bolted into the rock faces—an experience that might be challenging for those with a fear of heights.

Wildlife at Khama Rhino Sanctuary

While technically closer to the village of Paje, the Khama Rhino Sanctuary is a standard day trip for anyone staying in Palapye. This 8,585-hectare reserve was established in 1992 to protect Botswana's white and black rhino populations. It is located 70 kilometers from Palapye via the Serowe road. I suggest arriving at the gates by 08:00 to increase your chances of seeing rhinos at the waterholes before the midday heat sets in. The sanctuary requires a 4WD vehicle for most of its sandy internal tracks, although the main entrance and restaurant area are accessible to standard cars.

Practical Transit and Logistics

Palapye functions as the industrial heart of the region, largely due to the Morupule Coal Mine and the adjacent power station which produces a significant portion of Botswana's electricity. For the traveler, this means the town offers the best infrastructure between the major cities. You will find several modern malls, such as Palapye Junction and Engen Mall, which are essential for stocking up on supplies before heading into the more remote Tswapong or Central Kalahari regions.

Travel Conditions on the A1 Highway

The stretch of the A1 highway passing through Palapye is heavily trafficked by long-haul trucks moving between South Africa and Zimbabwe. Road conditions are generally good, but livestock frequently wanders onto the tarmac, making night driving extremely hazardous. If you are planning a stopover, the fuel stations in Palapye are often less congested than those in Mahalapye to the south. Additionally, the town has seen a recent surge in boutique guesthouses and hotels, making it a more comfortable base than it was a decade ago.

Climate and Timing Your Visit

The best months to visit are May through August when daytime temperatures average a pleasant 25°C and the risk of rain is nearly zero. October is notoriously the hottest month, with temperatures frequently peaking at 37°C, which can make hiking in the gorges grueling. During the wet season from November to March, the Tswapong waterfalls are at their most impressive, but the gravel access roads to the heritage sites can become muddy and difficult to navigate without a robust 4x4 vehicle.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the entrance fee for Moremi Gorge?

As of 2025, visitors must pay a vehicle entry fee of 55 BWP and a tiered hiking fee ranging from 80 BWP to 120 BWP depending on the number of waterfalls visited. These rates are subject to change and may differ for non-residents, so checking with the Goo-Moremi Resort office upon arrival is recommended.

Can I visit the Old Palapye ruins in a small car?

You can reach Malaka village in a standard sedan, but the final 20-kilometer stretch to the Old Palapye ruins and the LMS church consists of rough gravel and sand. During the dry season, a high-clearance 2WD might manage the trip, but a 4WD is strongly advised after any significant rainfall to avoid getting stuck in the silt.

Is it necessary to hire a guide for the Tswapong Hills?

For the Moremi Gorge, a guide is mandatory to protect the spiritual integrity of the site and the safety of hikers on the steep cliff sections. At Old Palapye, while not strictly required by law, hiring a local guide from Malaka is the only way to find specific rock paintings and understand the complex history of the 19th-century capital.

How far is Khama Rhino Sanctuary from Palapye?

The sanctuary is approximately 70 kilometers west of Palapye, a drive that takes about one hour via the well-paved A1 and Serowe roads. It is a popular destination for self-drive game viewing, and the gates are open daily from 08:00 to 19:00 for day visitors.

What is the best time of day to hike the gorges?

I recommend starting your hike at Moremi Gorge by 07:30 to avoid the intense midday sun and to catch the best light for photography within the deep canyon walls. Early morning starts also provide the best opportunity to observe the Cape Vultures as they leave their nests in the cliffs for the day's foraging.