Ojos del Salado: Chile's 6,893m Volcano

Ojos del Salado is the world's highest active volcano, rising 6,893 meters on the Chile-Argentina border in the Atacama Region. The drive from Copiapó takes roughly five hours by 4x4, and the standard route from the Chilean side requires no ropes or ice axes — a rock step near the summit is the only technical obstacle.

That accessibility is deceptive. The mountain is a serious high-altitude objective, and only about one in three summit attempts succeeds, mostly because of altitude sickness and brutal wind. This article covers what you need to know before committing to the climb, from permits and acclimatization to the best months and the practical details of getting there.

Planning Your Ojos del Salado Expedition

Where It Is and How to Reach the Trailhead

Ojos del Salado sits in the Puna de Atacama, about 20 kilometers south of the Paso de San Francisco border crossing. The mountain itself straddles Chilean and Argentine territory, with the standard route beginning from the Chilean side. The gateway town is Copiapó, a mining city about 800 meters above sea level with an airport served by domestic flights from Santiago.

From Copiapó, a 4x4 track climbs east through the Atacama Desert toward Laguna Verde at 4,350 meters. The drive takes five to six hours and passes through the Maricunga salt flat, where flamingos sometimes gather in the shallow brine pools. Ordinary rental cars cannot handle the final stretch; the road is rough, unmarked in places, and exposed to sudden weather changes. Most climbers arrange transport through an expedition operator or hire a local driver in Copiapó.

Permits and Registration

Because Ojos del Salado lies on an international border, non-Chilean climbers must register with DIFROL, Chile's border authority. The process is generally handled through an expedition operator or at the border office; fees are modest but subject to change, so confirm current requirements before you travel. Chilean nationals face fewer formalities but still need to inform authorities of their route. Independent climbers without an operator should allow extra time in Copiapó to sort out paperwork.

When to Climb

The official season runs from November 1 to March 31, with December through February offering the most stable weather. Even in midsummer, summit-day temperatures can drop to around -25°C with wind chill, and gusts of 100 km/h are not unusual. Climbing outside the official season requires a special permit and is not recommended for anyone without extensive winter mountaineering experience.

I would avoid the shoulder months of November and March unless you have flexible dates — the wind is more persistent, and a single storm can erase a week of acclimatization gains. The trade-off is fewer people on the mountain. In February, you might share the Tejos hut with a dozen other climbers; in November, you could be alone.

Routes and the Reality of Climbing at 6,893 Meters

The Standard Chilean Route

The normal route from Chile is essentially a high-altitude trek. A 4x4 can drive to the Tejos hut at approximately 5,800 meters, which means the summit push involves about 1,000 meters of vertical gain. Most climbers take eight to twelve hours round-trip, starting well before dawn to avoid the afternoon wind.

The terrain is scree, sand, and loose rock for most of the way. Near the top, a short rock step — roughly 30 meters of scrambling graded around YDS 5.6 — leads to the summit crater. Expedition operators fix a rope here, and a helmet is mandatory. Without that final pitch, the mountain would be a walk-up; with it, you need to be comfortable moving on exposed rock at nearly 6,900 meters.

The summit itself has two peaks of nearly identical height, and a small crater with fumarolic vents. On clear days, you can see the Maricunga salt flat to the west and the Argentine Puna to the east.

Acclimatization and the Drive-Up Paradox

The easiest way to reach almost 6,000 meters is also the biggest hazard. Driving from Copiapó at 800 meters to a base camp above 4,000 meters in a single day gives your body almost no time to adjust. Altitude sickness is the main reason climbers fail or get hurt on Ojos del Salado.

A sensible itinerary builds in at least two acclimatization hikes before the summit push. Many expeditions stop at Laguna Verde (4,350 meters) for a night, then hike to a nearby peak such as Siete Hermanas (4,780 meters) or San Francisco (6,016 meters) before moving to the Tejos hut. That progression takes five to seven days from Copiapó. Shorter trips of three or four days exist, but they have lower success rates and higher risk.

I would not attempt this mountain without prior experience above 5,000 meters. The altitude is unforgiving, and the remoteness means rescue is not quick. A satellite phone or personal locator beacon is standard equipment for guided groups, and independent climbers should carry one too.

What to Expect on Summit Day

You will start in the dark, likely around 3 or 4 a.m., with temperatures well below freezing. The first few hours are a slow grind up scree. The rock step comes near the end, and after that, a short traverse leads to the summit. Most climbers feel the altitude most acutely between 6,500 and 6,800 meters, where every step requires a deliberate breath.

The descent is faster but harder on the knees. Many climbers return to the Tejos hut by early afternoon. If the wind picks up, visibility can drop quickly, and the route is not marked with fixed poles. A GPS track and a guide who knows the route are valuable assets.

Practical Details for Visitors and Non-Climbers

The area around Ojos del Salado is part of Nevado de Tres Cruces National Park, which protects the Maricunga salt flat and Laguna del Negro Francisco. Non-climbers can visit Laguna Verde, where hot springs provide a warm soak at 4,350 meters, and observe flamingos, vicuñas, and foxes. The drive from Copiapó to Laguna Verde takes about five hours each way, and day trips are not practical — most visitors stay at least one night.

There is no entrance fee for the national park as of the most recent information, but fees are subject to change, so check with the official Chilean tourism site before you go. The park has no facilities beyond basic ranger stations and the Refugio Laguna Verde, which offers simple accommodation and camping. Bring all your own food, water, and fuel.

For those not attempting the summit, the drive itself is the attraction. The road crosses high passes with views of the Andean chain, and the silence of the desert at 4,000 meters is profound. I would recommend a 4x4 tour from Copiapó even if you never leave the vehicle for more than a short walk.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do I need a guide to climb Ojos del Salado?

No permit requires a guide, but most climbers hire one. Independent climbers must arrange their own 4x4 transport, handle DIFROL registration, and be fully self-sufficient. Rescue services are limited, and a guide adds a safety margin for route-finding and altitude management.

How much does an expedition cost?

Guided expeditions from Copiapó typically range from $2,500 to $6,000 per person, depending on duration and services. A five-day climb with basic logistics sits at the low end; a fourteen-day trip with private base camp and chef costs more. Independent climbers can reduce costs by sharing transport and gear.

What is the success rate for summit attempts?

Roughly one in three attempts reaches the summit. The main reasons for failure are altitude sickness, high winds, and insufficient acclimatization. Climbers who spend at least five days above 4,000 meters before the summit push have a significantly better chance.

Can I climb without prior high-altitude experience?

It is not advisable. The combination of a fast vehicle ascent to 5,800 meters and a summit above 6,800 meters means altitude sickness is a real risk. Most operators require previous experience above 5,000 meters, and some require a prior 6,000-meter peak such as Aconcagua or Huayna Potosí.

What is the best month to climb?

December, January, and February offer the most stable weather and the highest summit success rates. November and March are windier but less crowded. The mountain is climbable outside the official season only with a special permit and winter-grade equipment.