Bernardo O'Higgins National Park: Chile's Largest Protected Area

At 3.5 million hectares, Bernardo O'Higgins National Park is the largest protected area in Chile and one of the biggest in the world. It safeguards a vast stretch of the Southern Patagonian Ice Field, the third-largest continental ice mass after Antarctica and Greenland. The park is a labyrinth of fjords, glaciers, and temperate rainforest, accessible almost exclusively by boat or helicopter. Its remoteness is the point: few places on Earth feel this raw and untouched.

A Park Born of Ice and Exploration

Creation and Expansion

Chile established the park on July 22, 1969, naming it after Bernardo O'Higgins, the country's first head of state. It originally covered a smaller area but was significantly expanded in 1985 to include more of the ice field and surrounding fjords. Today it spans the Aysén and Magallanes regions, with the majority lying in Magallanes. The park is managed by CONAF, Chile's national forest corporation.

Geological Origins

The landscape was carved by glacial action over millennia. The Southern Patagonian Ice Field feeds 49 glaciers within the park, including the famous Pío XI, Balmaceda, and Serrano. Pío XI is notable for its continued advance—one of the few glaciers in the world still growing. The park's highest peak is Lautaro Volcano at 3,607 meters, an ice-clad stratovolcano that rises dramatically from the fjords.

Early Inhabitants

Before the ice and fjords became a tourist draw, the region was home to the Alacalufe (Kawésqar) people, skilled seafarers who navigated these cold, treacherous waters for thousands of years. Their presence is a reminder that this seemingly inhospitable land has a long human history.

Navigating the Park: Access and Logistics

Getting There

There are no roads into the park. The primary access is by sea from Puerto Natales, a city about three hours by bus from Punta Arenas. From Puerto Natales, tour operators run full-day and half-day cruises through the Última Esperanza Fjord to see the Balmaceda and Serrano glaciers. These trips typically depart early morning and return by mid-afternoon. For the more remote northern sections, access is via Tortel or Villa O'Higgins, but these require careful planning and are often done by expedition vessels.

Entrance Fees and Hours

As of 2024, the entrance fee for foreign visitors is CLP 14,500 (about USD 15), while Chilean nationals pay a lower rate. Tickets can be purchased online through the Pases Parques Nacionales platform. The park is open year-round, but hours vary by season: from October to April, it's open 08:00 to 19:00 (last entry 18:00); from May to September, 09:00 to 17:30 (last entry 17:00). Always check the official site for current rates and schedules, as fees are subject to change.

Best Time to Visit

The austral summer, from November to March, offers the most stable weather and longest daylight hours. January and February are the warmest months, with average highs of 15–25°C in the fjords, though wind and rain are always possible. Winter (June–August) brings shorter days and colder temperatures, and many tour operators reduce their schedules. If you want to avoid crowds, consider late October or early April—the weather is still manageable, and visitor numbers drop.

What to See and Do

The Iconic Glaciers

The Balmaceda Glacier hangs dramatically above the fjord, its ice face calving into the water. The Serrano Glacier is reached by a short trail from Puerto Toro, where you can walk to a viewpoint for close-up views of the ice. Pío XI is the largest glacier in the Southern Hemisphere outside Antarctica, and its advancing front is a spectacle. Most day cruises include a stop at Serrano for a short hike and a whiskey on the rocks—using ice harvested from the glacier.

Wildlife Watching

Keep an eye out for sea lion colonies, cormorants, and occasional condors. The park's forests are home to species like the huemul (South Andean deer) and pudú, though sightings are rare. Marine life includes dolphins and, if you're lucky, whales. The fjords are also a birdwatcher's paradise, with albatrosses and petrels often following the boats.

Hiking and Exploration

There are few maintained trails. The most accessible is the short path to the Serrano Glacier viewpoint, which takes about 30 minutes round trip and involves some steps and rocky sections. For serious trekkers, guided expeditions into the ice field are available but require prior arrangements, proper gear, and a guide. The park is not a place for casual hiking—its terrain is rugged, and weather can change rapidly.

Practical Advice for Visitors

What to Bring

Layers are essential. Even in summer, temperatures can drop to near freezing, especially on the water. Waterproof jacket and pants, sturdy hiking boots, gloves, hat, and sunscreen (the ozone hole over Patagonia makes UV exposure intense). Bring cash for entrance fees and any extras, as ATMs are scarce in Puerto Natales. A reusable water bottle is also handy.

Safety and Regulations

Stay on marked trails where they exist. The park is a protected area, so don't disturb wildlife or remove anything. Fires are strictly prohibited. Weather can be unpredictable, so always check forecasts and follow guide instructions. If you're on a boat tour, wear the provided life jacket during landings.

Crowd Control

Visitor numbers are relatively low compared to other Patagonian parks (about 36,000 in 2016), but cruise schedules can concentrate people at the glaciers midday. If you're independent, aim for early morning departures or consider a multi-day expedition for solitude.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I get to Bernardo O'Higgins National Park?

The main access is by boat from Puerto Natales, with tours departing daily (weather permitting) to the Balmaceda and Serrano glaciers. There are no roads, so independent travel requires chartering a boat or joining an expedition. From Punta Arenas, take a bus to Puerto Natales (about 3 hours).

Is the park open year-round?

Yes, but operating hours vary: October–April 08:00–19:00, May–September 09:00–17:30. However, tours and access may be limited in winter due to weather. Always check with local operators for current conditions.

How much does it cost to enter?

Foreign visitors pay CLP 14,500 (around USD 15) for entrance. Chilean nationals pay a reduced fee. Tickets should be purchased in advance online. Fees are subject to change—verify on the official CONAF site.

Do I need a guide to visit?

For the typical glacier cruises, no—the boat tour includes guiding. But for any hiking or exploration beyond the short Serrano trail, a licensed guide is strongly recommended and often required for safety.

What is the best time to visit?

November to March offers the best weather and longest days. December and January are peak season, with more visitors. For fewer crowds, try late October or early April, but be prepared for cooler temperatures and occasional rain.