Todos los Santos Lake: Puerto Varas' Emerald Lake Guide

Todos los Santos Lake sits 60 km east of Puerto Varas, a 178.5 sq km body of emerald water inside Vicente Pérez Rosales National Park. The drive from Puerto Varas to the Petrohué dock takes about 1 hour and 15 minutes on Route 225. That emerald tint comes from suspended volcanic sediment, not glacial flour — a detail most guides get wrong. The lake is the first leg of the Cruce Andino crossing to Argentina, but most visitors treat it as a day trip from Puerto Varas.

Getting There and Orientation

The western end of the lake is the only road access. Petrohué has the dock, a small ranger station, and the ticket booth for the national park. There is no road along the shore — Peulla, on the far eastern end, is reachable only by boat. That isolation is what keeps the water clear and the crowds thin.

By car from Puerto Varas

Take Route 225 east toward Ensenada. The road hugs the Llanquihue Lake shoreline for the first 30 km, then climbs into the park. Allow 1 hour and 15 minutes to 1 hour and 30 minutes depending on traffic near Ensenada. The last 12 km are gravel in spots — fine for a standard sedan, but slow going after rain. Parking at Petrohué costs 3,000 CLP (about $3) and fills by 10:30 am in January.

By bus

Local buses leave Puerto Varas for Petrohué several times daily from the Galería Real stop on Walker Martínez. The trip takes about 1 hour and 15 minutes and costs 2,000–3,000 CLP each way. Buses are small and fill up — buy your ticket the day before if you're traveling in summer. The first bus typically departs around 8:30 am, but schedules shift with the season; confirm at the Puerto Varas bus office.

Park entry and boat tickets

Park entry for foreign adults is 7,000 CLP (about $7.50); children under 12 pay 3,500 CLP. Tickets are sold at the Petrohué entrance and are valid for the day. The park is open 8:30 am to 8 pm from December to February, and 8:30 am to 6:30 pm March to November. Boat fares are separate: a round-trip catamaran to Peulla runs about 45,000 CLP ($48) for adults in high season, with the one-way crossing taking roughly 2 hours. Fees change — check the official park site or the Cruce Andino office in Puerto Varas for current rates.

What to See and Do on the Lake

Most visitors come for the boat crossing, but the lake rewards slower exploration. The water temperature stays cold year-round — 12–14°C even in February — so swimming is a quick dip, not a swim session. The shores are mostly volcanic pebbles and ash, steep in places.

The catamaran to Peulla

The 2-hour crossing from Petrohué to Peulla passes Isla Margarita, a forested island in the middle of the lake. On clear days you get three volcano views at once: Osorno (2,652 m) to the northwest, Puntiagudo (2,493 m) to the north, and Tronador (3,491 m) on the Argentine border. The boat is enclosed but has an open deck — bring a windproof layer, because the wind on the water cuts through fleece. The 10-hour round-trip tour from Puerto Varas includes the boat and a stop at Petrohué Falls, and costs around $51 per person with shared transport.

Petrohué Falls and the river mouth

Just 6 km from the Petrohué dock, the Petrohué River exits the lake and cascades over black lava rock in a series of chutes and pools. The falls are included in the park entry. A 20-minute boardwalk loop gives you close access. Go early — by 11 am in summer the tour buses arrive and the boardwalk gets crowded. The water here is the same emerald green as the lake, and the contrast with the black volcanic rock is the most photographed spot in the park.

Hiking near the shore

The Sendero Los Enamorados is a short 1.5 km loop from the Petrohué dock that climbs through old-growth Valdivian rainforest to a viewpoint over the lake. It takes about 40 minutes at a slow pace and is the best option if you have limited time. For a longer walk, the Sendero Mirador de los Volcanes runs 4 km up a ridge behind the falls, gaining 300 m in elevation; on a clear day you can see the lake and Osorno together. Trails are well-marked but can be muddy — sturdy shoes are essential.

Practical Tips for Your Visit

The weather changes fast here. A sunny morning in Puerto Varas can turn to rain by the time you reach Petrohué — the park sits in a transition zone between the coastal rain forest and the drier Andean side. Bring a rain shell and a warm mid-layer regardless of the forecast.

Best time to go

December to March is summer and the driest window, with daytime temperatures of 15–22°C. February is the warmest month but also the busiest; expect 30-minute waits for the boat around midday. November and March offer nearly the same weather with fewer people. Winter (June–August) brings rain and reduced boat schedules — the crossing may only run once a day or not at all, so check ahead. Locals will tell you that a clear day in April is better than a cloudy one in January; visibility is what matters here.

What to bring and what to skip

Bring cash for park entry and parking — the card machine at Petrohué is unreliable. There are no ATMs in the park. A small snack stand near the dock sells empanadas and coffee, but for a proper meal, eat in Ensenada or back in Puerto Varas. Skip the swim unless you're used to cold water; the pebble beach at Petrohué is small and the bottom drops off quickly. And don't bother with the lake tour if the forecast is for heavy rain — the volcanoes disappear and the emerald color turns flat gray.

Where to stay

Puerto Varas is the best base: 60 km away, with the widest range of hotels and restaurants. Ensenada, 30 km closer, has a handful of lodges and cabañas and is quieter. Peulla has one hotel (Hotel Peulla) and a few cabins, but it's mainly a stopover for the Cruce Andino. Staying overnight in Peulla gives you the lake at dusk and dawn, when the day-trippers are gone — a different experience entirely.

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does it take to get from Puerto Varas to Todos los Santos Lake?

The drive to the Petrohué dock takes 1 hour and 15 minutes to 1 hour and 30 minutes on Route 225. Buses take about the same time but run less frequently — usually three or four departures per day from Puerto Varas.

Do I need to book the boat to Peulla in advance?

In high season (December–February), yes. The 2-hour catamaran crossing sells out, especially on weekends. Book through the Cruce Andino office in Puerto Varas or online at least two days ahead. In low season you can usually buy a ticket at the dock.

Can you swim in Todos los Santos Lake?

Technically yes, but the water stays 12–14°C year-round. The shoreline is mostly pebbles and volcanic ash, and the bottom drops off quickly near the Petrohué dock. A short dip on a hot February day is fine; extended swimming is not recommended.

Is the lake worth visiting on a rainy day?

Only if you're prepared for limited views. Rain clouds hide the three volcanoes, and the emerald water looks gray. Petrohué Falls still run strong in rain, but the boardwalk gets slippery. If you have flexibility, wait for a clear forecast.

What is the entrance fee for the national park?

Foreign adults pay 7,000 CLP (about $7.50); children under 12 pay 3,500 CLP. The ticket covers Petrohué Falls and the lake shore for the day. Boat fares are separate and start around 45,000 CLP round-trip to Peulla. Fees are subject to change — check the official site for current rates.