Pumalín Douglas Tompkins National Park

Pumalín Douglas Tompkins National Park covers 402,392 hectares of temperate rainforest, fjords and active volcanoes in Chile's Los Lagos Region — roughly 1,200 km south of Santiago. Entry to the trails is free, though you must register with a park ranger on arrival. The park sits astride the Carretera Austral between Caleta Gonzalo in the north and El Amarillo in the south, which means you can drive through it, but you shouldn't.

The land began as a private acquisition. In 1991, California entrepreneur Douglas Tompkins — co-founder of The North Face and later Esprit — bought the 17,000-hectare Reñihué ranch to stop logging of native forest. Purchases continued for nearly three decades, reaching about 293,000 hectares, and in 2018 the Chilean state declared the donated land a national park. The name was expanded to honor Tompkins after his death in a 2015 kayaking accident in Patagonia.

What Makes This Park Different

Alerce forests older than most civilizations

The park protects roughly 25 percent of the world's remaining alerce (Fitzroya cupressoides), a slow-growing conifer related to the California redwood. Some specimens here are thought to be over 3,000 years old. The alerce was logged heavily through the 19th and 20th centuries, and the recovery now visible on the Andean slopes is the direct result of the logging ban that Tompkins's land purchases made possible. Walk the short Sendero de los Alerces and you'll pass trunks that were already mature when the Roman Republic was founded — a fact that reframes the word "old-growth."

Two volcanoes and a hanging glacier

Volcán Michinmahuida rises to 2,460 m and anchors the park's skyline; Volcán Chaitén, farther south, erupted catastrophically in 2008 and again in 2011, burying the surrounding valley in ash. That ash layer is still visible along the access road, and the recovering vegetation on the dome gives the southern sector a raw, unsettled look you won't find in Chile's gentler parks. The Ventisquero Colgante (hanging glacier) near El Amarillo pours off a cliff face and never reaches the valley floor — the meltwater simply sprays into a pool below.

25 percent of a global forest type

Valdivian temperate rainforest is one of the rarest forest types on earth, and Pumalín is the largest single protected unit within it. More than 11 trails thread through the park, ranging from a 30-minute boardwalk to full-day climbs. Rainfall is heavy — this is one of the wettest corners of Chile — which explains the moss-draped trunks, the fern understory and the dozens of unnamed waterfalls that appear after a storm.

Planning Your Visit

Getting there from Puerto Montt or Chaitén

Most travelers fly into El Tepual Airport (PMC) in Puerto Montt, then choose one of two approaches. The land-and-ferry option follows the Carretera Austral south to Hornopirén, crosses the Comau Fjord by ferry, and continues to Caleta Gonzalo — the northern entrance — in roughly four and a half hours of driving once you're off the water. The southern approach is simpler: a small plane from Puerto Montt to Chaitén takes about 40 minutes, and from Chaitén it's 17 miles of paved road to El Amarillo. I'd take the ferry route if weather allows — the fjord crossings are half the point.

Fees, hours and registration

Trails are free. Camping at CONAF-managed sites costs 6,000 CLP per person per night, cash preferred, and operates strictly first-come, first-served — no reservations are accepted. The administration office at El Amarillo opens daily 08:30–13:00 and 14:00–17:30, but trail entry closes at 14:00, so late arrivals are turned around. Fees and hours are subject to change — check the official CONAF site for current rates before you travel.

How many days you actually need

Give the park two full days minimum from Chaitén. One clear morning for the Chaitén crater climb, which is steep and often cloud-covered by midday; one wet day for the alerce and waterfall walks, which arguably look better in rain. Travelers who try to see Pumalín in a single afternoon — and many do — end up driving more than hiking. The park is enormous, there is no fuel inside it, and the trailheads are spread across 40 km of gravel road.

Trails and Landmarks

Cascadas Escondidas

A 1.5 km boardwalk loop through dripping rainforest to a series of waterfalls tucked behind a footbridge. It's the shortest introduction to why the park is called a rainforest, and the wooden path is well maintained. About 14 km south of Caleta Gonzalo.

Ventisquero Colgante

A 4 km round-trip climb with 250 m of gain to a viewing platform facing the hanging glacier. On a clear day the ice reads electric blue; in rain you hear it before you see it. Sturdy shoes matter — the trail gets slick.

Volcán Chaitén crater

The steepest option in the southern sector, rewarding hikers with a rim view over a steaming lava dome. Go early on a clear morning; clouds typically swallow the crater by early afternoon.

Lago Blanco and Lago Negro

Glacial lakes in the northern sector with campgrounds nearby. Good bases if you're driving the full length of the park and want to break the journey.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do I need to book Pumalín in advance?

No. There is no online reservation system and no entry fee for trails. You register with a ranger on arrival, and campgrounds are allocated in order of arrival — 6,000 CLP per person per night.

What is the best month to visit?

December through March, the austral summer. Trails are generally passable and campsites open from mid-December. Winter travel is possible but the Carretera Austral becomes difficult and some sectors close seasonally.

Can I visit without a car?

It's hard. Trailheads are spread along the Carretera Austral with no public shuttle inside the park, and there's no fuel for sale. Lodge-based transfers from Caleta Gonzalo or guided day trips from Chaitén are the practical alternatives.

How long does the Chaitén crater hike take?

Allow roughly 40 minutes to an hour for the steep climb and the same down, plus time at the rim. The trail is exposed and weather-dependent — cloud can close the view within an hour of a clear start.

Is there anywhere to stay inside the park?

Camping only at designated CONAF sites, plus a lodge at Caleta Gonzalo with meals and guided walks. El Amarillo and Chaitén have guesthouses if you prefer a bed and a hot shower.