Moya Beach and the Southern Coastline of Anjouan

Moya is the primary coastal attraction on the island of Anjouan in the Comoros, located approximately 35 kilometers south of the capital city, Mutsamudu. This destination is defined by its twin crescent-shaped beaches where volcanic cliffs meet the Indian Ocean, creating a secluded environment for green sea turtle nesting. Visitors should expect a travel time of roughly 90 minutes from the main port due to the winding, mountainous terrain that characterizes the island interior. While the infrastructure remains modest, the area provides one of the few reliable locations in the Comoros to observe marine wildlife in a relatively undisturbed setting.

The drive from Mutsamudu is arduous. The road climbs through the central highlands, passing near the base of Mount Ntringui, which reaches an elevation of 1,595 meters, before descending sharply toward the southern coast. Hiring a private taxi for this journey typically costs between 15,000 and 20,000 Comorian Francs. Most drivers will wait for the day or return at a specified time, as public transport to this remote tip of the island is infrequent and often ceases entirely after midday. I recommend arranging a return trip in advance because finding a spontaneous ride back to the north in the late afternoon is nearly impossible.

Coastal Geography and the Turtle Habitat

The Double Crescent of Moya Beach

The shoreline at Moya is divided into two distinct bays separated by a rocky outcrop that becomes impassable during high tide. The first bay is where the few local guesthouses are situated, offering direct access to the water and a view of the local fishing pirogues. The second bay, located further south, requires a short scramble over volcanic stones but offers significantly more privacy. The sand here has a unique golden-brown hue, a result of the high basalt content in the surrounding cliffs. Erosion from the steep hillsides continuously feeds the beach, creating a deep, soft shelf that is ideal for turtles to bury their eggs.

Water conditions in the bays are generally calmer than on the exposed eastern coast of Anjouan. The surrounding headlands break the force of the Indian Ocean swells, making the shallows safe for swimming. However, the seafloor drops off quickly beyond the first thirty meters. Travelers should stay mindful of the tidal shifts, as the transition from low to high tide happens rapidly, often trapping unsuspecting walkers on the far end of the second beach. My observation is that the southern bay is best visited in the early morning when the light hits the cliffs directly, highlighting the deep green vegetation against the dark rock.

Sea Turtle Nesting Cycles

Green sea turtles use these beaches as a primary nesting site throughout the year. Unlike the more famous marine park on Moheli, the conservation efforts at Moya are community-led and less formalized. Local guides usually offer night walks for approximately 5,000 Comorian Francs to see the females coming ashore to lay eggs. Peak nesting activity occurs during the dry season from April to August, though it is rare to spend a night on the beach without seeing at least one turtle. These creatures can weigh up to 150 kilograms, and watching them navigate the steep beach incline is a physically intense spectacle.

Protection of these animals is vital since poaching remains a localized threat. Visitors are encouraged to use red-light torches or no light at all to avoid disorienting the nesting females. Besides the nesting process, early morning visitors might witness hatchlings making their way to the ocean. The success rate of these hatchlings depends heavily on the lack of human interference and the management of local dog populations. If you sit quietly near the tree line at dawn, you are likely to see the tracks left in the sand from the previous night, which look remarkably like heavy tractor tires.

Practical Navigation and Local Life

Transport and Logistics

Accessing Moya requires a sturdy vehicle, preferably a 4x4, though standard sedans frequently make the trip with some difficulty. The road conditions fluctuate based on the recent rainy season, with potholes and steep gradients being the norm. There are no petrol stations in Moya village, so drivers must ensure they have a full tank before leaving Mutsamudu or Sima. If you are traveling on a budget, shared taxis known as taxi-brousse depart from the Mutsamudu market area, but they only leave when full and rarely travel all the way to the beach itself.

Upon arrival, the village of Moya offers a glimpse into the traditional Comorian way of life. The economy here is split between artisanal fishing and agriculture, with cloves and ylang-ylang being the primary cash crops grown on the hillsides. The scent of drying cloves often hangs heavy in the air during the harvest months of October and November. It is polite to ask permission before photographing the local residents or the drying racks set up along the roadside. This region is culturally conservative, so modest dress is expected when walking through the village area away from the sand.

Where to Stay and Eat

Accommodation options are limited to a handful of eco-lodges and guesthouses that prioritize simplicity over luxury. Room rates generally range from 15,000 to 25,000 Comorian Francs per night, often including a basic breakfast of bread, fruit, and local coffee. Electricity in Moya can be intermittent, as the village sometimes relies on generators or solar power that may not last through the entire night. It is wise to carry a power bank for mobile devices and a high-quality flashlight for navigating the paths between the guesthouses and the beach after dark.

Dining usually involves the catch of the day, which might include grilled snapper, tuna, or lobster depending on what the local fishermen brought in that morning. Most meals are served with coconut rice, fried plantains, or manioc. There are no formal restaurants in the area, so visitors should notify their guesthouse hosts in advance if they require lunch or dinner. Additionally, carrying a supply of bottled water and snacks from Mutsamudu is a smart move since the small village kiosks have very limited stock. The lack of commercial development means that dinner is often eaten by candlelight, providing an atmosphere that feels entirely disconnected from the modern pace of the outside world.

Frequently Asked Questions

When is the most reliable time to see sea turtles at Moya?

Green sea turtles nest at Moya all year, but the highest frequency occurs between April and August. During these months, the drier weather makes night-time beach walks more comfortable and the sea conditions are generally calmer for those wishing to snorkel near the reefs.

How much should I expect to pay for a taxi from Mutsamudu to Moya?

A private one-way trip typically costs between 15,000 and 20,000 Comorian Francs, which is roughly 30 to 40 Euros. It is highly recommended to negotiate a round-trip price that includes the driver waiting for several hours, as return transport is difficult to find in the village.

Are there any specific permit or entrance fees for Moya Beach?

There is no official entrance fee to access the public beach at Moya. However, if you wish to participate in a guided turtle-watching excursion at night, expect to pay a local community guide a fee of approximately 5,000 KMF to ensure safety and environmental compliance.

Is there reliable internet or mobile signal in the Moya area?

Mobile signal from the national provider, Comores Telecom, is generally available but can be weak or drop out entirely near the cliffs. Most guesthouses do not provide Wi-Fi, so travelers should purchase a local SIM card in Mutsamudu if they need to stay connected during their stay.

What should I bring for a day trip to Moya?

Visitors should bring high-SPF sunscreen, insect repellent for the evening, and sufficient cash in Comorian Francs as there are no ATMs in the south. It is also essential to carry plenty of drinking water and any specific snacks, as the local shops only carry very basic staples like biscuits and tinned goods.