The Standing Obelisk of Ramses II at Luxor Temple

The remaining Luxor obelisk stands 25 meters high at the entrance of Luxor Temple, serving as the sole survivor of a pair commissioned by Ramses II. This 250-ton red granite monolith was carved around 1250 BC and has occupied the same position for over three millennia. While its western counterpart was removed and transported to Europe in the 19th century, this eastern needle provides a rare opportunity to see an Egyptian obelisk in its intended architectural context. Entry to the Luxor Temple complex currently costs 500 EGP for foreign adults, a fee that covers the entire site including the Great Colonnade and the Court of Ramses II.

Architecture and Origin of the Red Granite Monolith

Ancient engineers extracted this single block of stone from the pink granite quarries in Aswan, located roughly 200 kilometers south of its current resting place. The sheer technical difficulty of transporting such a mass—nearly a quarter of a million kilograms—required the use of seasonal Nile floods to float massive barges directly to the temple quay. Looking closely at the surface reveals deeply incised hieroglyphs that remain remarkably sharp despite three thousand years of exposure to the elements. These inscriptions celebrate the military triumphs of Ramses II and his devotion to the sun god Amun-Ra, effectively serving as a vertical record of pharaonic propaganda.

The Symbolic Base and the Baboon Carvings

The most distinctive feature at the base of the obelisk involves a series of four baboon figures carved into the stone. These animals are depicted standing on their hind legs with paws raised in a gesture of adoration—a biological behavior observed by ancient Egyptians as baboons made noise and moved at dawn. This was interpreted as the animals greeting the rising sun, linking the monument directly to solar theology. Many visitors pass by these carvings without realizing they represent the first rays of light striking the earth. The pedestal itself is slightly shorter than the one designed for the missing western twin to compensate for natural slopes in the terrain, ensuring the pair once looked symmetrical from a distance.

Engineering Feats of Ancient Transport

Constructing a monolith of this scale involved more than just carving stone; it required an intricate knowledge of physics and friction. Workers used dolerite pounders to slowly hammer the granite out of the bedrock before sliding it onto timber sleds lubricated with water or oil. The obelisk was likely raised into position using a massive sand ramp—a process where the stone was slowly tilted until it slid into its stone socket at the temple pylon. This specific obelisk at Luxor leans slightly today, a result of shifting foundations and minor seismic activity over the centuries, yet it remains one of the most stable standing structures in the entire Theban necropolis.

The History of the Missing Western Obelisk

The empty pedestal on the western side of the pylon serves as a reminder of a significant 19th-century diplomatic exchange. In 1829, the ruler of Egypt, Muhammad Ali Pasha, gifted both obelisks to King Charles X of France to celebrate the deciphering of hieroglyphs by Jean-Francois Champollion. However, the immense logistical cost and technical complexity of moving even one stone meant that only the western obelisk was ever taken. It arrived in Paris in 1833 and was erected in the Place de la Concorde three years later, where it still stands today.

Diplomatic Gift and the Cairo Clock Tower

In return for the two massive stone pillars, the French government presented Egypt with a large copper mechanical clock. This timepiece was installed in the clock tower of the Mosque of Muhammad Ali at the Cairo Citadel, though it reportedly malfunctioned almost immediately after its arrival. It remained broken for nearly 150 years until recent restoration efforts attempted to bring it back to life. This trade—an ancient stone monument for a failing 19th-century machine—is often cited by historians as one of the most lopsided exchanges in archaeological history. France did not officially waive its legal claim to the remaining Luxor obelisk until the 1980s under President Francois Mitterrand.

Timing for the Best Photography

Photography enthusiasts should aim for the late afternoon when the sun begins to drop toward the West Bank of the Nile. The low-angle light hits the red granite, causing the stone to transition from a dull grey-pink to a vibrant orange hue. This is also when the shadows within the sunken reliefs are longest, making the hieroglyphic symbols easier to distinguish. Avoid the mid-morning window when the sun is directly overhead, as the flat lighting hides the texture of the granite and the details of the baboon base. The temple is illuminated at night with yellow floodlights, which creates a sharp contrast against the dark sky, though this artificial light can make it harder to see the natural variations in the stone color.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why is there only one obelisk remaining at Luxor Temple?

Originally there were two, but the western obelisk was gifted to France in 1829 and moved to Paris. The French government found the transport of the first stone so expensive and difficult that they never returned to claim the second one.

How tall is the Luxor obelisk and what does it weigh?

The remaining eastern obelisk stands 25 meters tall and weighs approximately 250 tons. It is slightly taller than its twin in Paris because the pair was designed with forced perspective in mind to appear equal from the temple entrance.

What is the current entry price for Luxor Temple?

Foreign adult visitors are required to pay 500 EGP for a standard entry ticket as of late 2024. Students with a valid international ID can usually purchase a half-price ticket for 250 EGP at the gate.

What are the baboon carvings on the base for?

The four baboons on the pedestal represent the adoration of the rising sun and the solar cycle. Ancient Egyptians observed these animals making noise at dawn and believed they were worshiping the sun god as he began his journey across the sky.

Where can I see the missing twin obelisk today?

The western twin is located in the center of the Place de la Concorde in Paris, France. It was erected there in 1836 after a multi-year journey by ship from the Nile to the Seine river.