Historical Sites and River Life in Jangjangbureh

Jangjangbureh sits approximately 300 kilometers inland from the Gambian coast on the north side of MacCarthy Island. This settlement remains one of the oldest colonial towns in West Africa, established in 1823 by Captain Alexander Grant as a sanctuary for liberated slaves. While the coastal resorts of The Gambia offer sun and sand, this riverine town provides a starkly different environment of red-brick ruins and dense gallery forests. Visitors typically arrive here after a five-hour drive from Banjul, seeking a connection to the country's pre-colonial and colonial past.

The Colonial Legacy of MacCarthy Island

Founding and the Freedom Tree

The town was originally named Georgetown in honor of King George IV, but the name reverted to Jangjangbureh in 1995. The island itself covers roughly 20 square kilometers and was once a strategic trading post for the British. Near the administrative buildings stands the Freedom Tree. Historical accounts suggest that any slave who reached the island and touched this tree was granted their liberty. It remains a quiet spot today, marked by a simple plaque, yet it represents the island's primary identity as a place of refuge. The surrounding streets follow a colonial grid pattern, though many of the 19th-century structures are now reclaimed by vegetation.

Navigating the Slave House Debate

One of the most visited sites is the building popularly known as the Slave House. Local oral traditions maintain that this structure, with its heavy iron rings and low-ceilinged basement, was used to house captives before they were shipped downriver. However, structural analysis by historians suggests the building may have actually been a colonial warehouse for groundnuts and trade goods. This discrepancy does not diminish the site's emotional weight. Walking through the cool, damp lower levels provides a sensory connection to the era's harsh realities. I suggest hiring a local guide to hear the specific family stories associated with the wooden house of the Jones family, who were among the first 200 freed slaves to settle here in 1832.

Wildlife and Ancient Sites Near the Town

The Wassu Stone Circles

Located about 22 kilometers northwest of the Lamin Koto ferry terminal, the Wassu Stone Circles are the most famous megalithic site in the region. These stones, some reaching over two meters in height, date back to between the 3rd century BC and the 6th century AD. This UNESCO World Heritage site consists of 11 circles made of laterite pillars. The site museum charges an entrance fee of approximately 200 Dalasi, which covers both the exhibits and a brief explanation from the on-site curator. Standing among these ancient burials, you notice that many stones have small rocks piled on top — a local tradition where visitors make a wish while adding to the pile.

River Safaris and Baboon Island

The Gambia River is roughly 1.5 kilometers wide near the island, creating a massive corridor for wildlife. Boat trips from the town docks often head toward Baboon Island, which is part of the River Gambia National Park. This area serves as a sanctuary for over 100 chimpanzees. While humans are strictly forbidden from landing on the islands, you can observe the primates from the water. It is also common to spot hippos near the riverbanks during the heat of midday. The gallery forests along the banks are particularly rich in birdlife, including the rare African Finfoot, which is a prize sighting for birdwatchers.

Planning Your Trip to the Central River Region

Best Time to Visit and the Kankurang Festival

January is the peak month for cultural travel because of the annual Kankurang Festival. This event showcases the Mandinka masking tradition, which UNESCO recognized as Intangible Cultural Heritage. The streets fill with the sound of rhythmic drumming and the sight of the Kankurang — a figure covered in red bark and leaves brandishing machetes. If you visit outside of January, the Kankurang Center and Museum in town offers a permanent display of these masks and explains their role in male initiation rites. The town is significantly quieter from May to October when the rains make some of the unpaved side roads difficult to navigate.

Getting There: Roads and Bridges

The logistics of reaching the island changed significantly in July 2010 with the opening of the Sankulay Kunda bridge. This bridge connects the south bank road directly to the island, removing the need to wait for the often-unreliable ferry. Most travelers choose the south bank road from Banjul because it is fully paved, though it features numerous police checkpoints that can add an hour to the journey. The north bank route involves a ferry crossing from Banjul to Barra and is generally more rugged. I recommend using the south bank for speed and the north bank if you intend to stop at the Wassu Stone Circles before arriving in town.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the best way to get to Jangjangbureh from the coast?

The most efficient route is the south bank road via Soma, which is a drive of roughly 282 kilometers. You can use the Sankulay Kunda bridge to drive directly onto the island without waiting for a ferry. GTSC Super Express buses depart daily from Kanifing around 8:00 am and reach the town by early afternoon for about 385 Dalasi.

Are there entrance fees for the historical sites in town?

Most of the outdoor colonial ruins and the Freedom Tree are free to view, but the Slave House and the Kankurang Museum usually request a small fee or donation. Expect to pay between 50 and 100 Dalasi per person for these sites. Prices at the Wassu Stone Circles are higher, currently set at 200 Dalasi for international visitors.

Is it possible to see chimpanzees on a day trip?

Yes, you can hire a boat from any of the lodges in Jangjangbureh for a two-to-three-hour trip toward Baboon Island. Since the chimpanzees live in a rehabilitation project, they are often visible on the riverbanks, though landing on their island is prohibited. These boat trips usually cost between 1500 and 3000 Dalasi depending on the boat size and duration.

When does the Kankurang Festival take place?

The festival is held annually in January, typically during the last weekend of the month. In 2025, the 8th edition of the festival is scheduled for January 24th to 26th. It is advisable to book accommodation several months in advance as the town’s few lodges fill up completely during this period.

What should I pack for an upriver trip in The Gambia?

Temperatures inland are significantly higher than on the coast, often exceeding 40 degrees Celsius in the dry season. Bring high-strength insect repellent, as mosquitoes are more prevalent near the river, and a good pair of binoculars for birdwatching. Sturdy walking shoes are necessary for exploring the uneven terrain around the stone circles and the town ruins.