Lamas, Peru: The Amazon's Three-Story City

Lamas sits about 22 km north of Tarapoto, and the drive takes roughly 30 to 40 minutes on paved road. The town climbs a ridge between 310 and 920 meters above sea level, which is why locals call it the City of the Three Floors — and why the temperature drops a few degrees as you ascend from the valley floor.

A colectivo from the 10th block of Jirón Urgarte in Tarapoto costs a few soles and runs regularly; organized half-day tours cost around S/55 to S/70 per person and add a guide, a museum stop, and hotel pickup. Both options work. The difference is what you learn.

What to See in Lamas

Plaza de Armas

The main square is small enough to cross in two minutes and dense enough to hold your attention for twenty. Bronze statues of local figures line the perimeter, each one representing a trade or custom of the Lamista people, and the municipal building and church frame a plaza that residents call the altar of the fatherland. The square sits on the middle tier of town, which makes it the natural starting point for everything else.

Castillo de Lamas

The castle is the reason most visitors come. Built from hand-molded stone by Italian businessman Nicola Felice beginning around 2005, it imitates a European medieval fortress and stands on the upper tier with a clear view over the Bajo Mayo valley. It is open daily from 9:00 AM to roughly 6:00 PM, including holidays, and entry costs a few soles — bring cash, because card signal up here is unreliable. Go inside: the interior details explain why a man from Italy spent years building a castle in the Amazon.

Museo Chanka y de la Diversidad Lamista

Open 9:00 AM to 6:00 PM, this museum charges S/6 for adults and S/3 for children. Ceramics, textiles, and displays on mythology and the main festivals take about an hour. It is a worthwhile stop on the walk between the plaza and the castle, and it gives context that the streets alone do not.

Barrio Wayku

Wayku is the lower tier, home to the Quechua-speaking Lamista community, whose presence here dates to around 1438. This is not a reconstructed village — people live and work here. Women sell ceramics and woven textiles in the small market near the neighborhood square, and the pottery is genuinely made locally rather than imported from Lima. Walk slowly, ask before photographing people, and buy something if you handle it.

Practical Details for Your Visit

Getting There and Around

Without a tour, head to the 10th cuadra of Jirón Urgarte in Tarapoto and take a colectivo or minibus; the ride is about 40 minutes and the fare is minimal. Tours depart around 3:00 PM and last three to four hours, which means you arrive in softer afternoon light and finish near dusk. My own preference is the independent route for the freedom, with one caveat — a guide is worth the money if you want to understand the Quechua-Lamista side rather than just photograph it.

The town's three tiers mean real vertical walking. From Wayku up to the castle is a steady climb on stairs and steep streets; anyone with knee issues should take a mototaxi between levels for a few soles.

When to Go

The drier window runs from May through October, and the tourism-weather sweet spot falls between mid-May and late August. September is the hottest month, averaging 32°C at midday, while June nights drop to about 19°C.

Late August brings the Fiesta de Santa Rosa in Wayku, one of the best moments to see the town's dances and processions — and the busiest. Rainy season, November through April, delivers afternoon downpours; March is the wettest month with around 357 mm. Trails and stairs get slick, so pack a light rain poncho rather than an umbrella.

Bring sunscreen and insect repellent regardless of season. Altitude around 800 meters is mild, but the sun at this latitude is unforgiving even under cloud.

How Long to Allow

Half a day covers the plaza, museum, castle, and Wayku at an unhurried pace. If you want to watch a pottery demonstration, sit in the square, or catch the valley view at golden hour, budget four to five hours. Fees at the museum and castle are low but subject to change — check with the Lamas municipality for current rates before you go.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I get from Tarapoto to Lamas without a tour?

Take a colectivo or minibus from the 10th block of Jirón Urgarte in Tarapoto. The trip covers about 22 km and takes 30 to 40 minutes on paved road.

How much does the Castillo de Lamas cost to enter?

Entry is a few soles and the castle is open daily from 9:00 AM to about 6:00 PM, including public holidays. Bring cash — card payments are unreliable at that elevation.

Is Lamas worth visiting in the rainy season?

Yes, with preparation. From November to April expect frequent late-afternoon showers and muddy stairs, but vegetation is at its fullest and crowds are thin. Pack a rain poncho; March is the wettest month, averaging 357 mm.