Visiting the Wamala Tombs of Buganda King Suuna II

The Wamala Tombs contain the remains of Kabaka Suuna II, the 29th monarch of the Buganda Kingdom, who held power from 1832 until 1856. Located on a steep ridge in the Nabweru area of Wakiso District, the site sits roughly 13 kilometers north of the Kampala city center. While the more famous Kasubi Tombs often draw larger crowds, the atmosphere at Wamala offers a raw and less commercialized perspective on Ganda royal traditions.

Historical Significance of Kabaka Suuna II

The Reign and Legacy of the 29th King

Kabaka Suuna II is a figure of intense historical complexity in Buganda. He holds the distinction of being the first king to allow outside influences into the kingdom, specifically Arab traders who arrived in the mid-19th century. These visitors introduced items like mirrors, guns, and the kanzu—a traditional robe that remains the standard formal attire for Ganda men today. Suuna was a powerful and often feared ruler; oral traditions claim he executed many of his brothers to consolidate power. He was an incredibly prolific monarch, fathering 218 children with his 148 wives. His choice of residence at Wamala was driven by a desire to remain close to his mother, Namasole Kanyange, who lived on the adjacent Kagoma Hill.

The Tradition of the Removed Jawbone

Suuna II occupies a unique position in the timeline of Buganda royalty as the last king to follow specific ancient burial customs. According to Ganda belief, a king does not die but simply disappears into a forest. Historically, the jawbone of a deceased Kabaka was removed—a process believed to capture his spirit. This bone was then placed in a royal sanctum where it became the focal point for ancestral communication. Suuna was the final monarch to have his jawbone removed and preserved in this manner. He was also the last king to be buried within his actual palace, a practice that ended with his successor, Mutesa I.

Architectural Features and Cultural Layout

The Batabarira Shrine and the Eternal Forest

The primary structure at the site is a massive, circular grass-thatched building known as the Batabarira. Its design is a masterpiece of indigenous engineering, utilizing a network of internal poles to support a towering conical roof. Inside, visitors encounter a collection of Suuna’s personal artifacts, including original spears, shields, and drums. A critical feature of the interior is a section screened off by bark cloth, symbolizing the entrance to the eternal forest. It is strictly forbidden for anyone to look beyond this veil. A fireplace is maintained inside the tomb to provide warmth for the king’s spirit as he travels through the spirit world—a detail that underscores the site's role as a living temple rather than a static museum.

The Houses of the Royal Twins

Near the main entrance of the compound stand two smaller, specialized huts dedicated to the royal twins. In Buganda culture, twins are considered a blessing from the spirits, and their umbilical cords are carefully preserved within these structures. One house belongs to the royal twins, while the other is dedicated to the Kabaka’s own twins. Small fireplaces are also located outside these houses and are lit at night to keep the spirits of the twins warm. The grounds of the tombs are often quiet, though you may see local caretakers performing maintenance or preparing offerings of coffee beans and dry grass.

Practical Information for Visitors

Reaching Nabweru Hill from Kampala

The journey from central Kampala to the Wamala Tombs typically takes 30 to 45 minutes depending on the notorious traffic of the Northern Bypass. Most travelers arrive via the Kampala-Hoima road, turning off toward the Nansana area. The final ascent to the hilltop is quite steep and the road is often rutted; a standard vehicle can manage the drive, but it requires careful navigation after heavy rains. The view from the summit is spectacular, providing a 360-degree look across the surrounding hills of Wakiso and the urban expansion of Kampala. To the west, you can easily spot Kagoma Hill, where the shrine of Suuna’s mother is located.

Visitor Etiquette and Local Fees

Respecting the sanctity of the site is the most important part of any visit. You must remove your shoes before entering any of the thatched buildings. Modest dress is mandatory; women should ensure their knees and shoulders are covered, and it is polite for men to wear trousers rather than shorts. Photography is generally permitted on the grounds, but you must ask for permission before taking photos inside the main shrine. The entrance fee for international visitors usually ranges from 10,000 to 20,000 UGX, while students and Ugandan nationals pay significantly less. These funds are managed by the Buganda Kingdom to help with the constant need for re-thatching the massive roof, which was last majorly renovated in 1958.

Frequently Asked Questions

What are the official opening hours for the Wamala Tombs?

The site is generally open to the public daily from 8:00 AM to 5:00 PM. It is advisable to arrive before 4:00 PM to ensure a guide is available to lead you through the history of the shrine.

How much does it cost to enter the Wamala Tombs?

Foreign tourists typically pay approximately 15,000 UGX for entry, though this can fluctuate based on current Buganda Kingdom policies. Ugandan citizens usually pay a nominal fee of around 2,000 to 5,000 UGX.

Is there a specific dress code for entering the royal shrine?

Yes, visitors must dress modestly with shoulders and knees covered to show respect for the royal ancestors. You are also required to remove your footwear before stepping onto the mats inside the main tomb building.

Can you visit the Wamala Tombs and Kasubi Tombs on the same day?

Yes, because the two sites are only about 8 kilometers apart, you can easily visit both in a single morning or afternoon. Combining them provides a clear comparison between the UNESCO-listed Kasubi site and the more traditional, less-visited Wamala site.

Why is the jawbone of the king significant at this site?

In Buganda tradition, the jawbone was believed to house the spirit of the deceased king, allowing for continued communication with the living. Suuna II was the final monarch to have his jawbone removed and enshrined separately from his body.