Esquel: Patagonia's Gateway to Ancient Forests and Steam Trains

Esquel sits at 800 meters in a valley where the Patagonian steppe meets the Andes, 300 km south of Bariloche and 620 km west of Trelew. Most travelers base themselves here for two reasons: Los Alerces National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage site 50 km west, and La Trochita, a 1921 narrow-gauge steam train that still climbs into the hills. The town itself is compact (Avenida Alvear and the central grid cover about six blocks), so you can walk to the plaza, the regional museum, and the tourism office in under 20 minutes. What makes Esquel practical is its airport: direct flights from Buenos Aires take 2.5 hours, making it the fastest entry point to this stretch of Chubut.

Getting There and When to Visit

By air, road, and rail

Aerolíneas Argentinas flies direct between Buenos Aires and Esquel Airport (EQS), a short drive north of town with no airport bus — taxis and remís (booked cars) are the standard transfer. The flight runs daily except Wednesdays, departing Buenos Aires around 13:30 and landing 2 hours 15 minutes later. By car, Ruta 40 from Bariloche takes 5 to 6 hours; from Trelew, Ruta 25 is the main approach from the east. Buses from Buenos Aires take about 26 hours — a grind, but cheap.

La Trochita is a tourist railway, not a practical transport option, but its 75 cm gauge is a living piece of Patagonian history. The usual run from Esquel climbs 18 km to Nahuel Pan station, where local artisans sell crafts and you can learn about the indigenous Tehuelche presence in the region.

Weather and seasonal timing

January and February are the warmest months, with highs around 21°C and lows near 8°C — ideal for hiking and fishing. Autumn and spring bring crisp days (14°C in March, 17°C in November) and fewer visitors. Winter, from June to September, is ski season at La Hoya, 12 km north of town. The snow is dry Patagonian powder, and the season is long for Argentina. Spring (late October to early November) is when the tulip fields in nearby Trevelin bloom — a detail many itineraries miss if they only look at summer temperatures. Precipitation is low year-round (around 34 mm in January, 133 mm in June), but wind is a constant; pack a layer you can zip up.

What to Do in Esquel and Around

Los Alerces National Park

This UNESCO site is the main reason many people come. The park protects ancient alerce trees — some over 3,000 years old — and a chain of glacial lakes. The full-day tour from Esquel (often with hotel pickup) covers roughly 8 hours and includes stops at Villa Futalaufquen, a short trail to Cascade Irigoyen, and a walk across the Rio Arrayanes footbridge. Park entry fees change; typical rates for foreign visitors are around 5,000–8,000 pesos, but check the official park site or the tourism office at Avenida Alvear 1120 before you go, because rates are updated periodically. Do not skip the short boat trip on Lake Futalaufquen — the silence between the peaks is the point.

La Trochita and the old Patagonian Express

The train station is ten minutes on foot from the center. The round-trip to Nahuel Pan takes about 2.5 hours including the stop. Tickets sell out in high season (January, February, and the June–September ski weeks), so buy two or three days ahead at the station or through the official tourism office. There is a small museum at the Esquel station with old photographs and spare locomotive parts; entry is included with the train ticket. The steam engine is the real draw — it is one of the last operating narrow-gauge steam trains in South America.

La Hoya ski center and summer trails

La Hoya is 12 km north of town and offers a small but steep ski area with rental on-site and a vertical drop of about 400 meters. In summer, the same access road leads to trails with views over the Esquel valley. A half-day guided tour (2 hours) runs from town for around 85 euros and includes hotel pickup; you can also drive yourself and hike. The center is not a resort in the mega-hotel sense — there is a lodge with a café, but no village. That means it feels quiet even when the slopes are busy.

Laguna La Zeta

Just 3 km from the center, this freshwater reserve is the local after-work spot. There is a beach area, a perimeter trail, and small docks for photography. In summer, lifeguards are on duty daily; swimming is allowed but the water stays cold even in January (the lake is fed by mountain streams). Entry is free. A 3.5-hour tour combining Esquel history, La Hoya viewpoint, and Laguna La Zeta costs about 28 USD and includes pickup — a good option if you have no car and a short stay.

Ice tunnels of Cerro La Torta

A 40-minute drive south (about 50 km) brings you to Cerro La Torta, where natural ice tunnels form inside the snowpack during summer. These are not caves in rock — they are tubular melt channels that can run 100 meters long. Access requires a 4x4 tour and a local guide; there is no independent access. Expect a high-altitude trail (the tunnels sit at around 1,600 meters) with steep sections, and you must register online in advance. As of recent seasons, parking cost 8 USD per vehicle and entry 3 USD per person, but fees are subject to change. Wear boots with good grip and bring sunglasses. It is a genuinely unusual landscape, but not for anyone with knee issues — the approach is rocky.

Practical Advice for Your Visit

The tourism office (Secretaría de Turismo de Esquel) at Avenida Alvear 1120 is open Monday to Friday from 7:00 to 20:00 and weekends from 8:00 to 20:00, with staff who speak some English. They can book tours, confirm train schedules, and give you a printed map; phone +54 2945 45-1927. The center is safe and walkable, but the wind can be strong enough to slow you down on open streets — locals walk on the east side of Avenida Alvear for shelter.

For La Trochita, buy tickets as early as possible; the train has limited carriages. For Los Alerces, bring lunch — the park has a small kiosk but limited options, and the full-day tour often stops at a picnic spot with no food service. If you are driving, fill up in Esquel before heading west; gas stations are scarce on the park road.

I recommend two full days as a minimum: one for the train and town, one for the park. Three or four days lets you add La Hoya and the ice tunnels. Winter visitors should note that some high-country roads close after heavy snow, so check the tourism office’s WhatsApp before leaving. There is a modest entrance fee for the regional museum, usually a few thousand pesos; it is a small museum but gives context to the Welsh and Tehuelche heritage of the area.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I get from Esquel Airport to the town center?

Esquel Airport (EQS) has no public bus. A taxi or remís into the center takes 10–15 minutes and is the standard option; you can book one at the desk inside the arrivals hall. Expect to pay less than 10 USD (rates vary).

How far in advance should I book La Trochita tickets?

Book at least 2–3 days ahead in January, February, and ski season. The train runs most days but sells out quickly, and the station ticket office has limited hours. In low season (March–May, September–November), you can often buy same-day.

What should I pack for Los Alerces National Park?

Layers, a waterproof shell, and sturdy shoes. The weather shifts fast, and even in summer the boat ride on Lake Futalaufquen is chilly. Bring cash for the park entrance fee (rates are often updated; check the official site) and your own food if you are on a self-guided visit.

Is Esquel a good base for winter skiing?

Yes, if you want a small, uncrowded resort. La Hoya is 12 km from town and has a vertical drop of about 400 meters, with rental and a day lodge. There is no large resort village, so you stay in Esquel and drive or take a shuttle to the slopes.

Do I need a guide to see the ice tunnels?

Yes. The ice tunnels on Cerro La Torta require a 4x4 tour with a local guide, and you must complete an online registration before the trip. Independent access is not allowed. Tours depart from Esquel and take half a day.