La Trochita: Riding Esquel's Old Patagonian Express

La Trochita runs on a 75-centimetre narrow gauge, the only steam railway of its kind still operating in the world, and completes its 18-kilometre journey from Esquel to Nahuelpan in roughly three hours round trip. Locomotives built in 1922 by Baldwin and Henschel still pull the wooden carriages. The trip departs from the Esquel railway station at the corner of Roggero and Brown, near the centre of a town of about 40,000 people in Chubut Province. The train leaves on a limited weekly schedule, usually Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday at 10 am during high season, so booking ahead matters more than most visitors expect.

The railway was built in stages between 1922 and 1945 to connect remote Patagonian settlements and serve the wool trade. The full line once stretched 402 kilometres from Ingeniero Jacobacci in Río Negro to Esquel, crossing some 600 curves. Passenger service on the whole route ended in 1992, and today's tourist trains cover the Esquel end only. That narrower scope has not diminished the appeal: the train was declared a National Historic Monument, and it is often described as a rolling museum.

Getting There and Practical Details

Location and transport

Esquel sits in the Andean foothills at roughly 570 metres above sea level, where the forest gives way to the Patagonian steppe. The station is an easy walk from the central Plaza San Martín and the Feria Artesanal. Local buses serve the area, and the terminal de ómnibus is about 8 minutes on foot from the railway station, making a taxi unnecessary for most arrivals by long-distance coach. If you fly in, Esquel Airport (EQS) receives flights from Buenos Aires and sits a short drive from town.

For travellers coming overland from Bariloche, the RN40 is the standard route, and buses run regularly. The train station is also close to the Av. Holdich and Chacabuco bus stop, served by local lines, if you are staying further out.

Tickets and reservations

Buy tickets through the official website latrochita.org.ar, at the station offices, or via authorised travel agencies in Esquel. Seats sell out weeks in advance during January, February and the winter school holidays; I would not count on same-day availability in those periods. Fares are tiered: international visitors paid around 150,000 Argentine pesos for the Esquel–Nahuelpan run under the tariff effective July 2026, while national residents paid less and provincial residents less still. Children under 5 travel free without a seat. Holders of a disability certificate and one accompanying person travel free. Pets are allowed at 50% of the local resident fare. Rates change with inflation, so confirm current prices on the official site before you commit.

Schedule and season

The train does not run daily. In January and February 2026 there were three weekly departures — Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday at 10 am — and winter schedules often shrink to Saturdays only, with extra services added when demand spikes. October has recently seen near-daily departures. Check the calendar for your dates rather than assuming a fixed timetable. Arrive at the station at least 30 minutes before departure; boarding is unhurried but the check-in desk gets busy.

What the Journey Is Like

On board

The carriages are small, wooden and heated by a coal stove in cold weather, which is part of the charm and part of the reason to dress warmly. Guides move through the train explaining the history of the line and the region, and a musician often plays guitar and sings songs tied to Mapuche and Tehuelche culture. English-language audio is available for visitors who do not speak Spanish. From the windows you look out over the Esquel valley and open steppe; locals along the route wave as the train passes, and it is hard not to wave back. The climb is gentle and the pace slow, so photography from an open window works well.

The stop at Nahuelpan

The train pauses at Nahuelpan, a Mapuche-Tehuelche community, for roughly 45 minutes while the locomotive is turned and prepared for the return. Use that time for the Museo de Culturas Originarias, which holds cultural material and oral histories of the local communities, and for the craft stalls near the station. The fried cakes sold by local families are a highlight — several travellers mention them specifically. The whole outing runs about three hours, which makes it an easy half-day that leaves the afternoon free.

Esquel and El Maitén departures

Two routes operate. The classic Esquel–Nahuelpan trip is the one most visitors take, and it is the shorter, simpler option. A second service runs from El Maitén to the Bruno Thomae siding on selected Saturdays at 3 pm, with guided visits to the workshops and museum from 2 pm. El Maitén suits rail enthusiasts who want a longer look at the maintenance side of the operation; it is about 70 kilometres south of Esquel and needs its own transport plan.

When to Go and What to Combine

Weather and seasons

Esquel has four distinct seasons. December to March is warmest, with highs around 22°C in January, and it is also the busiest period. July and August bring ski traffic to La Hoya, 12 kilometres north of town, and temperatures that dip to around -2°C; the steam and snow make for striking photos, but you will want gloves on the platform. Spring, from September to November, is quieter and the steppe begins to green up. Autumn, March to May, brings clear light and fewer crowds on the train. Any season works; the train runs year-round.

Nearby attractions

Los Alerces National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2017, lies about 50 kilometres west of Esquel and protects alerce trees that have lived for more than 2,600 years. A boat crossing of Lake Menéndez to the Alerzal Milenario is the usual way to see the oldest specimens. Trevelin, a Welsh-Argentine village 24 kilometres away, makes an easy half-day for tea houses and quiet streets. La Hoya, the ski area, sits just 12 kilometres north. Most travellers give Esquel two to four days, which is enough for the train, the park and a day in the surrounding valleys.

If you have only one day, do the train in the morning and drive to Trevelin in the afternoon — the two fit together without rushing, and the contrast between steam-era heritage and Welsh settlement history is the thing I remember most from the area.

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does the La Trochita trip take?

About three hours round trip from Esquel to Nahuelpan, including a stop of roughly 45 minutes at the Nahuelpan station while the locomotive is turned. The distance covered is 18 kilometres each way.

Do I need to book La Trochita tickets in advance?

Yes, in high season. January, February and the July school holidays sell out weeks ahead, and extra departures are sometimes added only because demand exists. Book via latrochita.org.ar or at the station; international adult fares were around 150,000 pesos under the July 2026 tariff, subject to change.

Where does La Trochita depart from?

The Esquel railway station at Roggero and Brown, in the urban centre within walking distance of Plaza San Martín. Local buses stop along Av. Holdich, and the long-distance bus terminal is about 8 minutes away on foot.

Is the train suitable for children and visitors with limited mobility?

Children travel at reduced fares, and under-5s ride free without a guaranteed seat. The carriages are historic wooden stock with steps, so wheelchair access is limited; travellers with a disability certificate and their accompanying person ride free, but it is worth contacting the operator in advance to discuss boarding.

What should I bring on the train?

Warm layers, even in summer — the carriages are heated by a stove and mornings on the steppe are cold. Bring cash for crafts and fried cakes at Nahuelpan, and a camera for the valley views. The train runs on a fixed schedule, so eat before boarding or bring a snack.