La Paz: The World's Highest Capital

La Paz sits at 3,600 meters, making it the highest administrative capital on Earth. The city tumbles down a steep canyon like a amphitheater, with red-brick houses clinging to slopes that drop 800 meters from the Altiplano rim to the valley floor. Founded in 1548 by Spanish conquistador Alonso de Mendoza on the site of an Inca village, La Paz became Bolivia's de facto seat of government in 1898, when most state institutions moved here from Sucre. Today, roughly 940,000 people live in this vertical metropolis, where cable cars—not trains—form the backbone of public transport.

What to See and Do in La Paz

The Historic Center: Plaza Murillo and Jaén Street

Plaza Murillo is the political heart of Bolivia. The Presidential Palace, the National Congress, and the Metropolitan Cathedral all face this square. Entry to the cathedral is free; it opens weekdays from 11:00 to 11:30 and 18:30 to 19:00, and Sundays from 10:00 to 12:00. A block away, Jaén Street preserves the city's best colonial streetscape—cobblestones, low adobe houses painted in bright colors, and several small museums. The Museum of Precious Metals costs Bs 20 for foreigners. I found the Museo de la Casa de Murillo (Bs 20 entrance) more rewarding than the cathedral: it occupies the house where independence leader Pedro Domingo Murillo lived, and the courtyard alone justifies the ticket.

The Witches' Market and San Francisco Church

Calle de las Brujas (Witches' Market) is a single block of stalls selling herbal remedies, dried frogs, and llama fetuses—offerings to Pachamama, the Andean earth goddess. It's free to walk through, but vendors expect respect: ask before photographing them or their goods. Two blocks downhill, the Basilica of San Francisco anchors the old town. The current building dates to the mid-18th century, after the original 1548 structure collapsed under heavy snow. Its mestizo baroque façade—carved stone mixing Spanish and indigenous motifs—is the finest in Bolivia. Church entry is free; the attached convent museum charges Bs 40 for foreigners, including a guided tour. The view from the bell tower, open Monday to Saturday from 16:00 to 18:00, is worth the climb.

Riding the Mi Teleférico Cable Car Network

La Paz's cable car system, Mi Teleférico, opened in 2014 and now spans 10 lines and over 30 kilometers. It's not a tourist attraction—it's how residents commute. A single ride costs Bs 3 with a rechargeable card (Bs 3.50 in cash). Buy a card for Bs 30 (includes Bs 15 credit) at any station; it saves time in queues. The Red Line from Estación Central to 16 de Julio gives you the classic view: the city spreading below like a carpet of red roofs, with Illimani's snow-capped peak (6,438 meters) in the distance. Ride at sunset, then again after dark—the lights turn the valley into a floating constellation. The Yellow Line to El Alto offers a different perspective, skimming over the rooftops of the satellite city at 4,000 meters.

Valle de la Luna and Killi Killi Viewpoint

Valle de la Luna (Moon Valley), 10 kilometers southeast of the center, is a maze of eroded clay formations that look like a lunar landscape. Entry costs Bs 15 for foreigners, and the 1-hour loop trail drops about 340 meters below street level. A minibus from the Plaza San Pedro area (look for signs saying "Valle de la Luna") takes 30 minutes and costs Bs 2. Alternatively, a taxi from the center runs about Bs 40 one-way. At the end of the day, Mirador Killi Killi—a hilltop park in the neighborhood of the same name—offers a 360-degree panorama. It's free and open daily; the climb from the street takes 5 minutes but feels longer at this altitude. Arrive 30 minutes before sunset for the best light.

Practical Information for Your Visit

Getting There and Around

El Alto International Airport (LPB), 13 kilometers from the center, sits on the Altiplano at 4,058 meters—higher than the city itself. A taxi from the airport to the historic center costs Bs 80–120 (roughly US$12–17); agree on the price before getting in. The cheaper option is minibus 212, which stops outside the terminal and costs Bs 5, but it's often packed and may skip the stop if full. Once in the city, taxis are plentiful; use Uber or radio taxis (Radio Movil Cristo Rey: 2-2222254) rather than hailing on the street, especially at night. The cable car is the fastest way to cross the valley—a trip that takes 30 minutes by road takes 10 minutes by air.

When to Go and How to Handle the Altitude

The dry season, May through October, brings clear skies and the best mountain views, but nighttime temperatures can drop below freezing. The rainy season (November to March) means afternoon thunderstorms and occasional landslides on the steep streets—though the city functions normally. Altitude sickness affects most visitors: headaches, breathlessness, and fatigue are common in the first 24–48 hours. Locals drink coca tea (mate de coca), available in every café and hotel lobby. Take it easy on day one—no strenuous hikes, no alcohol, and drink plenty of water. Most people adapt within two days. If symptoms worsen, hotels can provide supplemental oxygen.

Safety and Money

La Paz is generally safe for tourists who take normal precautions. Pickpocketing occurs in crowded markets and on buses; keep your phone and wallet out of sight. Carry small bills—many vendors and taxi drivers struggle to change Bs 100 notes. Credit cards are accepted at upscale restaurants and hotels, but markets and small shops run on cash. The official exchange rate hovers around Bs 6.9 to the US dollar, but the parallel market (common in the street near Plaza Murillo) offers more—though it's technically illegal and risky. Withdraw from ATMs inside banks or shopping centers during daylight hours.

Frequently Asked Questions

How many days do I need in La Paz?

Three full days cover the essentials: one day for the historic center and cable cars, one for Moon Valley and Killi Killi, and one for a day trip to Tiwanaku (70 kilometers away, about 1.5 hours by road). If you're acclimatizing, add an extra day at the start for rest.

Do I need to book cable car tickets in advance?

No—tickets are sold at every station. A rechargeable card costs Bs 30 (including Bs 15 credit) and saves you from buying single-ride paper tickets each time. The card is not refundable, but you can share it with travel companions.

What is the entrance fee for Moon Valley?

Foreign adults pay Bs 15 (about US$2.20). The ticket office closes at 17:00, and the trail takes about an hour to walk. Bring cash—cards are not accepted. Note that fees are subject to change; check the official municipal tourism website for current rates.

Is La Paz safe for solo travelers?

Yes, with standard precautions. Avoid walking alone after dark in unfamiliar neighborhoods, use radio taxis or Uber instead of street taxis at night, and keep valuables in a hotel safe. The cable car is well-patrolled and a safe way to move around after sunset. Demonstrations can disrupt traffic—check local news and avoid the area if you see crowds gathering.