Boca da Onça Waterfall: Bonito's 156m Giant

Boca da Onça Waterfall drops 156 meters in free fall, making it the tallest waterfall in Mato Grosso do Sul. It sits on a private farm about 60 kilometers from Bonito, and you can only visit with a licensed guide on a 4-kilometer trail that passes eight waterfalls and five natural swimming spots. The main waterfall alone justifies the trip, but the approach — through riparian forest with 886 steps cut into the canyon — turns a simple swim stop into a half-day adventure.

The Trail and What You'll See

The route starts near the farmhouse and follows the Salobra River upstream. You will get wet. Not just from swimming — the trail crosses side streams, passes behind thin curtains of water, and ends at a viewing platform where spray from the main fall drifts over you like rain. The midway point has a kiosk with bathrooms and a bar, and a support van waits there for anyone who wants to skip the steepest section.

The 886-Step Staircase

A metal staircase with 886 steps links the lower trail to the upper canyon rim. Going up takes 20 to 30 minutes at a steady pace; going down is faster but harder on the knees. Most tours run the route in reverse — starting at the top for the panoramic view of the Salobra River canyon, then descending the stairs — which is why some groups arrive at the main waterfall feeling fresh and others look like they have finished a stair climber. If you have knee problems, ask your guide to arrange the van shuttle for the staircase portion.

The Eight Waterfalls

Buraco do Macaco and Cachoeira do Fantasma are the two named stops before the main event. Buraco do Macaco has a deep pool at its base where you can jump from a low ledge — roughly 3 meters — and Cachoeira do Fantasma fans wide over a rock shelf, creating a misty curtain you can walk behind. The remaining six falls are smaller, but each has a natural pool. The water stays around 21 to 23°C year-round, cold enough to wake you up but comfortable for a 10-minute swim.

Facilities at the Farmhouse

After the hike, the base area has two flow-through pools stocked with local fish, a hot tub, changing rooms, hammocks, a bar, and a restaurant. Lunch is usually included in guided packages — rice, beans, grilled chicken or fish, and a dessert made with local fruit. The restaurant sits on a wooden deck overlooking the river, and it is a good place to linger if you are waiting for the group shuttle back to Bonito.

Planning Your Visit: Costs, Transport, and Timing

Guided tours from Bonito run 8 hours door-to-door and cost roughly 95 to 135 USD per person, depending on the season and whether transport is included. The farm charges a government fee of 15 BRL per person on top of the tour price. Book at least a week ahead in July — the peak school-holiday month — and at least three days ahead in other months. Prices and fees change; check the official site for current rates when you book.

Getting There

The drive from Bonito to the farm gate takes about 1 hour and 15 minutes on the MS-178, a paved road that turns to dirt for the last 8 kilometers. Public buses do not run this route. Hotel pickup is included in most tours, or you can rent a car and drive yourself — the farm has free parking. If you drive, leave Bonito by 7:30 AM to reach the gate when it opens at 8:00 AM. The afternoon storm risk in summer makes an early start the difference between a full hike and a shortened one.

Best Time to Go

The dry season, May to September, gives you firmer trails, less mud, and reliable access to the full route. Waterfalls are thinner then, but the swimming pools stay full. The rainy season, November to March, brings heavier flow — the main fall turns into a roaring curtain — but afternoon thunderstorms can close the trail early. October is a sweet spot: the first rains return some volume to the falls, mornings stay sunny, and temperatures sit between 28 and 31°C. I would pick October over July for photography and over January for comfort.

Who Should Skip It

Pregnant travelers, people with back problems, and anyone with poor fitness should not book the full trail. The stairs are steep, the path is uneven, and the total walking distance is 4 kilometers with several river crossings. Children as young as 5 can do it with help, but the full loop is tough for kids under 8. If you want a shorter outing, the half-trail to Buraco do Macaco covers two waterfalls and returns to the farmhouse in about 3 hours.

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does the full Boca da Onça trail take?

Plan 4 to 5 hours on the trail itself, plus 2 hours of transport from Bonito and lunch. Most guided tours run 8 hours total, with pickup between 7:00 AM and 8:00 AM and return by 4:00 PM. The 886-step staircase alone adds 30 to 40 minutes if you climb it rather than take the support van.

Can I visit without a guide?

No. The farm requires all visitors to be accompanied by a licensed guide from the attraction's own team or a partner agency. You can buy an admission ticket without transport, but a guide is still assigned at the gate. Tours are offered in Portuguese, English, and Spanish — confirm your language when booking, because English-speaking guides fill up faster in high season.

Is rappelling available, and how tall is the drop?

The farm offers a 90-meter platform rappel on the main waterfall, with a 34-meter free-hanging section. The rappel combo costs around 150 to 180 USD and includes breakfast, lunch, and training. Minimum age is 5, and the difficulty is rated easy, but you need to be comfortable with heights — the platform sits at the canyon rim.

What should I bring?

Wear quick-dry shorts and a shirt, and bring water shoes with grippy soles — the rocks at the swimming spots are slick. A dry bag for your phone is worth the 30 BRL you will spend in Bonito. The farm sells snacks and drinks, but bringing your own water bottle is cheaper. Insect repellent matters more in the rainy season; the trail runs through dense forest where mosquitoes are active from November to March.