Praia do Bonete: Ilhabela's Car-Free Beach Village

Praia do Bonete sits at the southern tip of Ilhabela, roughly 12 km by trail from the end of the island's paved road, and no car can reach it. The Guardian once placed this 600-meter curve of sand among the ten most beautiful beaches in Brazil, and the only ways in are a boat crossing of about 40 minutes or a hike of 3.5 to 6 hours through Atlantic Forest. That difficulty is the point — it keeps the caiçara village of some 300 residents intact and the shoreline free of beach clubs.

Arrive by boat and you step off onto sand within sight of canoes carved from single tree trunks. Arrive on foot and you come down out of the forest above the bay, legs scratched, with the whole crescent of beach opening below you. I have done both, and I would choose the trail every time — the waterfalls on the way up are worth the mud.

Getting to Praia do Bonete

By boat from Perequê

Organized boat tours leave Píer do Perequê around 10:00 and return near 17:30, a seven-hour day that usually includes a swim stop at Indaiaúba and a pass by Buraco do Cação before reaching Bonete. Budget about BRL 290 per person for the standard tour. The crossing itself takes roughly 40 minutes, though most operators stretch it with photo stops along the south coast. Independent water taxis also run from the pier and from São Sebastião — negotiate the price before boarding, because there is no fixed rate and HKD 190–R$ 250 per person is common for a shared flexboat.

Seas on this side of the island face open ocean, so crossings get rough in summer storms. Boats do not run in genuinely bad weather, and there is no refund culture to rely on — book with an operator who will reschedule.

On foot: the Bonete trail

Every account gives a different length, which tells you something. Some sources say 12 km, others 13, and the crossing measured from Ponta da Sela runs closer to 16 km. The honest answer: from where the asphalt ends at Ponta da Sela, expect 3.5 hours at a fast pace and up to 6 hours if you stop at the waterfalls and carry a heavy pack. The path was originally cut as a road, so it is wide and well-marked, climbing and dropping repeatedly through dense forest. You will cross three waterfalls — Laje, Areado and one more unnamed on most maps — and the last stretch delivers a viewpoint over the entire beach before the descent.

Registration for the trail is required through the state park system, and there is a monitor at the trailhead checking. Do not show up expecting to walk on without it. Go early; the mosquitoes and borrachudos are merciless after mid-morning, and an early start means you arrive with daylight to spare for the swim.

What to Do in Bonete

The beach and the surf

The bay catches open-ocean swell directly, and on many days the waves are serious — this is a known surf break, not a paddle-and-float beach. The sand runs about 600 meters between rocky headlands, with mountains behind it. No lifeguards patrol here, and the rip currents are real. Swimmers should stay close to the village end, where the bottom shelves more gently.

The village and its rhythm

This is the largest caiçara community in the archipelago, and it functions as a village first. Electricity runs on a generator only between 17:00 and 23:00, and at 23:00 the whole place goes dark — no streetlights, no fridge hum, just surf and, on a clear night, a sky thick with stars. Solar panels on a few verandas keep a light or two burning. Descendants of pirates and fishermen still live here, and several families rent rooms or run small campings. There are a handful of simple restaurants serving fresh fish and the local sururu shellfish — order it, it is the dish that defines this coast.

When to Go and What to Know

Seasons and weather

April through October is the dry window, and May to August is the sweet spot for the trail: firm mud, low rivers, mild temperatures. From 16 May to 16 August, humpback whales migrate along the São Paulo north coast, and the whole island shifts into whale-watching season — you may spot blows from the trail's higher sections. Summer, December through March, brings heat, heavy rain and a trail that turns into a clay slip; the village also fills up and the sea gets unpredictable for small boats.

Practical details

Bring a strong, long-lasting insect repellent — the borrachudos are the one complaint in every review, and locally sold citronella preparations help only briefly. There is no cell signal and no ATM. Carry cash for food, lodging and any boat ride back; if you hiked in and want to return by sea, ask other travelers whether they have spare seats on a chartered boat and split the cost. There are no cars in the village.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I visit Praia do Bonete without booking ahead?

For the boat tours, yes — operators accept same-day bookings if seats remain, and cancellation is usually free up to two days before departure. The trail is different: registration through the state park website is mandatory, and a monitor checks at the entrance.

How long does the Bonete trail take?

Most hikers cover it in 3.5 to 5 hours one way, depending on pace and how long they linger at the waterfalls. The return leg feels longer because of the accumulated climbing, so many people hike in and take a boat back for around BRL 50–190 depending on whether the seat is shared.

Is there anywhere to sleep in Bonete?

Yes. Local families rent basic rooms and there are several small campings in the village. Power is limited to 17:00–23:00, so charging devices requires planning, and hot showers depend on the household's solar setup.

Is the beach safe for swimming?

With caution. There are no lifeguards, and the open-ocean swell produces strong currents on many days. Stay near the village end and out of the water when the surf is up.