Laguna, Brazil: Dolphins, History, and the Santa Marta Lighthouse

Laguna is a colonial fishing town on Brazil's southern Santa Catarina coast, roughly 120 kilometers south of Florianópolis along the BR-101 highway. It is a rare place where wild bottlenose dolphins herd mullet toward waiting fishermen, and where a 135-year-old lighthouse on a rocky cape — the Farol de Santa Marta — remains the most powerful light beacon in the Americas. Most travelers arrive by bus in about two hours and fifteen minutes, with tickets on the Santo Anjo line starting around R$ 40 to R$ 60 depending on the day.

How to Get to Laguna and Where to Base Yourself

By bus from Florianópolis

Direct buses leave from the Rita Maria terminal in Florianópolis roughly three times per day. Viação Santo Anjo is the main operator; the trip takes 2h 15m and costs about 10 euros. Book online a day ahead during summer — the 09:45 departure fills up fastest. The Laguna bus terminal sits a short taxi ride from the historic center and a 15-minute walk from the Mar Grosso beach strip.

By car and the ferry shortcut

Driving from Florianópolis on the BR-101 takes about 90 minutes. The last stretch into the Cabo de Santa Marta lighthouse area involves a small ferry crossing at the Lagoa de Santo Antônio channel — it runs continuously during daylight and costs a few reais per car, but queues build after 10 a.m. in January. I'd suggest crossing before 9 a.m. if you want the lighthouse almost to yourself.

Where to stay

The Mar Grosso neighborhood has the widest range of pousadas and restaurants, while the historic center around the Anita Garibaldi museums suits travelers who want to walk to everything. The far-south beaches near the lighthouse have a handful of guesthouses but no banking or pharmacy infrastructure — fine for one night, inconvenient for a base.

The Essential Laguna Sights and Experiences

Dolphin-fisherman cooperation at the Barra

The wild bottlenose dolphins of Laguna are residents, not seasonal visitors, but the cooperative fishing peaks during mullet season from April to July. Fishermen stand thigh-deep in the canal mouth, and the dolphins slap their tails to signal the fish are in range. Arrive between 6 and 10 a.m. or 3 and 6 p.m. at Praia do Molhe, ten minutes from the historic center. There is no entrance fee, no fixed schedule, and no guarantee. Patience is the ticket price — I've waited 90 minutes on a quiet afternoon and seen nothing, then returned the next morning to a full spectacle within ten minutes.

Farol de Santa Marta

The lighthouse stands about 20 kilometers south of the center, reached via the ferry and a dirt road. Internal visitation happens only on the first weekend of each month, Friday through Sunday, from 9 a.m. to noon and 1 p.m. to 5 p.m. Entry is free but conditioned on donating one kilogram of non-perishable food, no advance booking required. The exterior area around the cape is open daily and free. The 135-year-old tower, inaugurated in June 1891, has a light range of about 45 nautical miles. Bring a windproof jacket — the cape is exposed and consistently breezy even in summer.

Anita Garibaldi and the historic center

The Casa de Anita and the Museu Histórico Anita Garibaldi open Tuesday to Sunday, 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Guided visits run in groups of up to 25 people with prior scheduling at reception. The cobblestone streets around them hold the 17th-century stone jail and the Praça República Juliana, the site where the short-lived Juliana Republic was declared in 1839. Set aside two hours for a slow walk; the museums themselves take about 40 minutes combined.

Beaches beyond the postcard

Praia do Gi draws surfers for its open-ocean swells and relaxed beach bars. Praia de Itapirubá, split into north and south sections, is quieter and better for families. Praia da Tesoura, right at the canal mouth, is where local dolphin enthusiasts have placed memorial markers — it is small, often overlooked, and my favorite spot for a late-afternoon swim without crowds.

When to Go and What to Plan Around

The best weather runs from October to March, with temperatures in the high 20s to low 30s Celsius and the most reliable beach days. Summer (December to February) brings the biggest crowds and the highest prices; the lighthouse access road can gridlock by mid-morning. Whale-watching season for southern right whales runs July to November, and the Laguna coast is part of the Santa Catarina Whale Heritage Area. Winter is quieter and cheaper, but offshore winds make the beaches less inviting — the dolphins, however, remain active year-round.

A practical note on the museums: the Casa de Anita and Museu Histórico Anita Garibaldi occasionally close for maintenance on short notice, and the visitation hours have changed more than once in recent years. Fees and schedules are subject to change — check the official Laguna tourism site or the Fundação Lagunense de Cultura before you go.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do I need to book the Farol de Santa Marta visit in advance?

No. Internal visitation is first-come, first-served on the first Friday, Saturday, and Sunday of each month, 9 a.m. to noon and 1 p.m. to 5 p.m. Arrive early in the morning — the food donation requirement (1 kg of non-perishable items) is collected at the entrance, and visitor numbers are capped by the tower's narrow spiral staircase.

Can I see the dolphins outside the mullet season?

The bottlenose dolphins live in Laguna year-round, but the cooperative fishing behavior with fishermen is most consistent from April to July. Outside those months, sightings still happen, especially in the early morning at the canal mouth, but expect a lower hit rate and no fixed schedule.

How long does it take to get from Florianópolis to Laguna?

The direct bus takes about 2h 15m from the Rita Maria terminal, with roughly three departures daily. Driving via the BR-101 takes about 90 minutes, plus a short ferry crossing if you continue toward the lighthouse.

Is Laguna walkable without a car?

The historic center and the Mar Grosso beach strip are walkable and connected by local buses and ride-hailing apps. The lighthouse and the southern beaches are 20 kilometers away and need a car, a tour, or a taxi — there is no regular public transport to the cape.