Ilha das Couves: Ubatuba's 177-Visitor Island

Ilha das Couves admits a maximum of 177 people at a time, and only in three fixed three-hour windows per day. That single rule shapes every decision about visiting this 58-hectare island off Ubatuba's northern coast, from which beach you leave from to whether you eat before you board.

The island sits near the border with Rio de Janeiro state, roughly 15 minutes by small boat from Picinguaba. Water clarity here regularly reaches 15 metres on calm days, and you can often count reef fish from a standing position on the sand. Since December 2019 the Fundação Florestal has regulated access, which means the crowds that once swamped the beaches in December and January are now capped — but so are you, at three hours ashore.

How to Get to Ilha das Couves

Departure points and crossing times

Picinguaba is the main launch point and the fastest option. Small open boats run the crossing in 10 to 15 minutes. Boats also leave from Enseada and, on some tour itineraries, from Praia do Estaleiro and Itaguá, though those routes take considerably longer and usually combine the island with other stops.

If your priority is time on the sand rather than a scenic cruise, Picinguaba is the answer. Boats from Itaguá on a three-island tour can spend 90 minutes or more just transiting between stops.

Boat costs and the landing fee

Expect around R$100 per person round trip from Picinguaba in cash, or about R$105 on card. Some operators quote R$40 to R$50 per person in low season when demand drops. Children under two typically travel free. On top of the boat fare, there is an environmental landing fee of roughly R$10 per person, collected separately.

Parking in Picinguaba costs around R$20 per vehicle for the day. Fees change with concession contracts and season, so confirm the current rate when you book rather than relying on a figure from an older review.

The three-shift system

Visits run in three windows: 08:00–11:00, 11:00–14:00, and 14:00–17:00. Each shift allows a maximum of three hours on the island, and boatmen stick to the schedule firmly because the 177-person cap is counted per shift. That works out to a theoretical ceiling of 531 visitors per day, though the practical number is usually lower.

The first shift is the one I'd choose. The sand is still empty at 8am, the light is softer for photographs, and the water is at its calmest before the afternoon wind builds.

Booking ahead

Weekends and holidays fill quickly, sometimes days in advance. Reputable operators take reservations by WhatsApp or through agency desks in Ubatuba town. Unauthorised boats are turned away at the island, so a cheap offer from an unlisted operator is not worth the risk of a wasted morning.

What to Do on the Island

Two beaches, one short trail

A trail of under five minutes separates Praia Menor, where boats land, from Praia Maior, home to the island's only kiosk. Neither is large. At high tide the strip of sand narrows considerably, which is why the visitor cap matters — cramped beaches were the original problem.

The kiosk serves food and drinks at prices noticeably above mainland levels. Bringing water and snacks is sensible, and it also means you are not queuing during your limited three hours.

Snorkelling and the natural pool

The rocky shoreline and boulder formations create calm, protected water on the leeward side. Visibility typically ranges from 8 to 15 metres, occasionally better when oceanic conditions push clear water in. You do not need a mask to see fish — children spot them from the shallows.

A natural pool area between the rocks is the focal point for most swimmers and snorkellers. Bring your own mask, as rental on the island is minimal. Biodegradable sunscreen is required, and rangers do check.

Wildlife above and below the waterline

Golden lion tamarins have been recorded on the island — an unusual sighting this far from their usual range, and a reason not to leave food unattended. In the water, turtles, rays and dolphins are all possible, and between June and August whale sightings occur along this stretch of coast. None of these are guaranteed; the dolphins on the crossing are the most frequent bonus.

When to Go and What to Expect

Best months

October to April is reliably workable. November and March are the sweet spot — good sea conditions, fewer boats, and clearer water than the peak holiday crush. December and January bring the heaviest demand and the most competition for shift slots.

May to August is low season. The island is quiet, the light is good for photography, and the trade-off is cooler water — around 18°C during upwelling events, compared with 26°C or so in late summer. Divers who care about visibility often favour January to March, when water sits at 21–27°C and clarity peaks near 12 metres.

Sea conditions and cancellations

Small open boats cannot handle a rough swell. If the sea is up, crossings get cancelled, and visitors already on the island may be brought back early. Build flexibility into your day rather than scheduling the island immediately before a flight or long drive. Morning crossings are statistically calmer, another argument for the 08:00 shift.

No infrastructure exists beyond the one kiosk — no showers, no proper changing rooms, no shade beyond the trees. Pack accordingly.

Frequently Asked Questions

How many people can visit Ilha das Couves at once?

A maximum of 177 visitors are allowed on the island per shift, with three shifts per day. Rangers and authorised boat operators enforce the limit at the landing point, and boats without credentials are refused permission to disembark passengers.

How much does a trip to Ilha das Couves cost?

Budget around R$100 to R$105 per person for the round-trip boat from Picinguaba, plus a R$10 environmental landing fee, and about R$20 for parking. Rates vary by season and operator, so confirm at the time of booking.

Can you stay overnight on Ilha das Couves?

No. There is no accommodation on the island and the last shift departs at 17:00. Each visitor gets a maximum of three hours ashore, and everyone must board the return boat at the end of their window.

Do you need to book in advance?

Yes, particularly at weekends and during December and January, when slots sell out days ahead. Book directly with an authorised operator from Picinguaba by WhatsApp or through a Ubatuba agency, and arrive at the beach ahead of your shift time.