Chamela-Cuixmala Biosphere Reserve: Mexico's Dry Forest

The Chamela-Cuixmala Biosphere Reserve protects 13,142 hectares of tropical dry forest along Jalisco's Pacific coast, about 160 km south of Puerto Vallarta. Unlike the lush jungles most travelers associate with Mexico, this landscape turns dusty and leafless for six months a year — and that seasonal swing is exactly what makes it one of the most biologically important protected areas in the Americas.

Getting There and Orientation

The reserve sits in the municipality of La Huerta, roughly midway between the small towns of Chamela and Costa Careyes on Highway 200. It is not a drive-up-and-park kind of place; access is tied to the UNAM biological station or to authorized tour operators, so plan your approach before you leave the airport.

By Air and Road

Puerto Vallarta's international airport (PVR) is the most practical gateway, 180 km northwest of the reserve. The drive south on MEX-200 takes about three hours and passes through the beach towns of the Costalegre. Manzanillo's airport (ZLO) is closer at 125 km to the southeast — roughly 90 minutes by car — and is the better choice if you're arriving from Mexico City or connecting through a western hub. Rental cars are available at both airports, and the highway is paved the entire way.

Public buses run the Barra de Navidad–Puerto Vallarta route and will drop you at the Chamela junction, but from there you'll need a pre-arranged pickup. I'd only recommend the bus if you've already confirmed transport into the reserve itself, because the entrance road is not somewhere you want to be stranded at dusk.

The UNAM Station

The Chamela Biological Station sits at kilometer 59 on the highway and serves as the reserve's research and visitor hub. It was established in the early 1970s, making this one of the longest-studied tropical dry forests on Earth. Within the station grounds there are about 4 km of vehicle-accessible dirt road and roughly 6 km of walking trails. If you're a birder or a biology-minded traveler, this is where you start.

What to See and Do

Birds, Cats, and Coastal Wetlands

The reserve hosts 270 bird species, 72 mammal species, 46 reptiles, and 20 amphibians, plus more than 1,200 plant species and four types of mangrove. The birding is the headline act — over 200 species are permanent residents, and neotropical migrants pass through in winter, so a December visit can produce a very different list than a July one. Expect to see soaring hawks and vultures, colorful woodpeckers, and if you're lucky, the flash of a military macaw.

Mammal sightings are harder but real: jaguar, ocelot, margay, and puma all live here, along with coyotes, raccoons, deer, and armadillos. The cats are shy and mostly nocturnal, so treat any sighting as a bonus rather than a plan.

Beaches and Turtle Sanctuaries

The reserve includes more than 3 km of Pacific shoreline, and the beaches at Cuixmala and Teopa were declared marine turtle sanctuaries back in 1986. Olive ridley, leatherback, and green turtles nest here. If your visit falls between roughly June and December, ask about turtle release programs — several local operators run them, and it's one of the few wildlife experiences in Mexico where you're almost guaranteed a close encounter.

The Chamela Bay area holds nine islands and islets, which is more than any other bay in Mexico. Boat trips out to the islands for snorkeling and bird colonies can be arranged through authorized guides in the area.

Hiking the Dry Forest

June through December is when the forest turns a vivid green, and the transformation is dramatic — the same trail you walked in April looks like a different ecosystem by August. Trails from the biological station cover about 6 km and range from easy flats to steeper climbs into the foothills of the Sierra Madre del Sur. Wear closed shoes; the terrain is rocky and the heat is serious.

Planning Your Visit

Season and Weather

The climate is warm and sub-humid, with an average annual temperature of 24.9°C. Rainfall averages about 748 mm at Chamela and 782 mm at Cuixmala, with more than 80% of it falling between July and November. The dry season runs November through June. November to April is the most comfortable window — clear skies, low humidity, and daytime highs around 31°C. July is the warmest month at about 33°C, and afternoon rain is a near-daily event.

My advice: if you want green forest and turtle season, come in November or early December, when the rains have just ended, the vegetation is still lush, and the humidity hasn't yet peaked.

Access, Rules, and Practicalities

The reserve is a federal protected area, and the core zones are off-limits to casual wandering. Visitors should expect to enter with a guide or through the biological station. The CONANP administrative office operates Monday to Friday, 8:00 to 15:00, so don't plan a weekend arrival expecting to sort out permits on the spot.

Rules are enforced: vehicles must stay on existing roads and trails at a maximum of 40 km/h, wildlife must not be touched or fed, and all trash must be carried out with you. There are no entrance fees posted for general tourism in the way there are at Mexico's archaeological sites — access is typically arranged through operators or the station, and fees vary by service. Rates are subject to change, so confirm current pricing and access arrangements directly with the reserve or your operator before you go.

Where to Stay and Eat

There is no public lodging inside the reserve. The nearest options are in Careyes, chamela town, and the surrounding Costalegre, or the luxury eco-estate at Cuixmala, which occupies part of the reserve's buffer zone and is a destination in its own right. Budget travelers should base themselves in Barra de Navidad or La Manzanilla and day-trip in. Restaurants are concentrated in the coastal towns; inside the reserve, bring your own water and food.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I get to Chamela-Cuixmala from Puerto Vallarta?

Drive south on MEX-200 for about 160 km, which takes roughly three hours. The reserve entrance lies between Chamela and Costa Careyes; the UNAM biological station is at kilometer 59. Renting a car at PVR is the simplest option, and public buses on the Barra de Navidad–Puerto Vallarta route can drop you at the junction.

When is the best time to visit?

November through April offers dry, clear weather with daytime highs near 31°C. If you want to see the forest green and join turtle releases, aim for late November or early December — the wet season ends in November, and the vegetation is at its most vivid before the dry months strip it back.

Do I need a guide or permit to enter?

The core zones require authorized access, and independent wandering is not permitted. Arrange entry through the UNAM biological station or a licensed tour operator. The CONANP office is open Monday to Friday, 8:00–15:00, so confirm arrangements in advance rather than arriving without a plan.

What wildlife can I realistically see?

The birding is reliable: more than 200 resident species, plus winter migrants, and 270 species recorded overall. Marine turtles nest on the beaches from June to December. Jaguars, ocelots, and pumas are present but rarely seen — treat any cat sighting as extraordinary luck rather than an expectation.