Playa Carrizalillo: Puerto Escondido's 167-Step Cove

Playa Carrizalillo is a 135-meter horseshoe cove at the foot of a cliff in Puerto Escondido, Oaxaca, reached only by descending a concrete staircase of roughly 167 steps. There is no road, no entrance fee, and no gate — the beach is public and open around the clock, though the palapa bars on the sand shut their kitchens by about 5 p.m.

The stairs are the whole story here. They keep the cove quieter than Zicatela and Playa Principal, and they filter out anyone unwilling to sweat for their swim. What waits at the bottom is the most sheltered water on this stretch of Pacific coast: a bay so protected by rock headlands that the surf rolls in half the size of what pounds the open beaches a few kilometers south.

Getting to Playa Carrizalillo

On foot from La Rinconada

The staircase begins at the end of a paved road in the Rinconada neighborhood, roughly a 10 to 15 minute walk from the center of Puerto Escondido. Walk down and you're on the sand in under five minutes. Walk back up and you'll understand why people linger at the top bar with a cold drink before hailing a taxi.

Wear shoes with grip. The steps are smooth concrete and turn slick after rain — flip-flops are fine in dry weather, borderline reckless in the wet season.

By taxi, colectivo, or scooter

From Zicatela or La Punta, a taxi takes about 10 minutes and costs a few hundred pesos; colectivos run the same route for a fraction of that and drop you near the cliff road. If you rent a scooter, parking at the top of the stairs is straightforward and free. There is no vehicle access to the sand itself, so anyone offering a "drive down" is selling you something that doesn't exist.

By water taxi

The alternative to the stairs is a short boat ride from Playa Principal, which drops passengers near the mouth of the cove. It's a pleasant option if your knees object to 167 steps, but the boats don't run on a fixed schedule — arrange your return with the same operator before you set off.

What to Expect on the Sand

Swimming, snorkeling, and surf lessons

This is the most beginner-friendly water in Puerto Escondido. The bay's shape softens the swell into long, rolling lines over a sand bottom, which is why surf schools use it as their classroom. If you've never stood on a board, book a lesson here rather than at Zicatela — the consequences of a mistake are far gentler.

Swimming is genuinely good, with one caveat. Stay away from the rocks at either end of the cove, where water surges back off the stones with real force. Casual swimmers should stay central and keep an eye on the lifeguard flags.

Snorkeling works on calm mornings, when visibility improves and small reef fish gather near the southern headland. Don't expect Caribbean clarity — this is the Pacific, and the sand stays suspended after any swell.

Food, shade, and the cash question

A handful of palapa restaurants line the back of the beach, serving fresh seafood, coconut drinks, and beer. Sun loungers and umbrellas are rented by the day — expect around 300 to 500 pesos for two people, and confirm whether food credit is included, because often it isn't. Bring cash. Most vendors don't take cards, and the nearest ATM is up the hill in town.

You're welcome to bring your own food, drinks, and towel and simply claim a patch of sand. That's the cheaper route and plenty of locals do it.

Crowds and timing

The beach fills up fast after midday, especially on weekends and during Mexican holidays. Arrive before 10 a.m. and you'll have your pick of shade and space. The light is also better for photographs early — the cove faces the right direction for a clean shot of the bay from the top of the stairs, framed by the staircase itself.

When to Visit

Seasons and weather

November through April is the dry season: blue skies, daytime temperatures around 27°C (80°F), and water that hovers near 25°C (77°F). This is also peak season, with higher hotel rates and fuller beaches. July is noticeably quieter and more local in feel — a reasonable trade if you don't mind occasional rain.

The months to think twice about are the height of the wet season, when heavy rain makes the staircase genuinely slippery and runoff clouds the water.

Surf conditions by season

Carrizalillo picks up south and southwest swell, which the bay filters into waist- to head-high waves. Smaller swells under a meter are ideal for learning. When a bigger south swell arrives, the cove's character changes and the inside section gets pushy — check a surf report before paddling out if you're not confident.

Surf instructors have priority in the inner break. If you're surfing independently, give their students room; it's the one unwritten rule here that locals actually enforce.

Practical Notes for Visitors

There are no shops on the sand beyond the palapas, so bring water, sunscreen, and anything you'll need for a few hours. Shade is limited to rented umbrellas and the natural shadow of the cliffs, which moves through the afternoon.

The stairs are not accessible for wheelchairs, strollers, or anyone with limited mobility — there is no alternative path down. Travelers with young children or older companions should plan accordingly, and the return climb is genuinely strenuous in midday heat.

Facilities are minimal: the palapa restaurants have restrooms for customers, and that's about it. Plan your day around a few hours rather than a full one, or commit to a long, lazy afternoon with lunch on the sand.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is there an entrance fee for Playa Carrizalillo?

No. The beach and the staircase are free and open at all hours. You only pay if you rent a lounger or umbrella, which runs roughly 300 to 500 pesos for two people per day depending on the vendor.

How many steps are there down to the beach?

Around 167, depending on where you start counting, descending a switchback concrete stairway from the cliff top in La Rinconada. The climb back up takes most people five to ten minutes with a pause or two.

Can you swim at Playa Carrizalillo?

Yes — it's the calmest swimming beach in Puerto Escondido thanks to the protected bay. Avoid the rocky edges of the cove where waves rebound off the stones, and follow the lifeguards' flags.

How do you get to Playa Carrizalillo without walking the stairs?

Take a short water taxi from Playa Principal, which drops you near the cove entrance. Arrange your return trip with the same boat operator beforehand, since there's no fixed schedule.