Howick Falls plunges 95 meters over a dolerite cliff into a deep pool that local Zulu legends claim is the home of the Inkanyamba, a giant serpent-like creature. This waterfall serves as the central landmark of a town situated at an elevation of 1,050 meters within the uMngeni Municipality of KwaZulu-Natal. Visitors often stop here briefly while driving the N3 highway between Johannesburg and Durban, but the area offers enough geographical and historical depth to justify a full weekend stay. Most travelers cluster around the main viewing platform at the end of Falls Drive, though the less crowded perspective from the bottom of the gorge provides a much better sense of the sheer scale of the Umgeni River's descent.
While the primary viewing deck is free to access and open 24 hours, the trail leading to the base of the falls requires more preparation and a modest level of fitness. This path, often referred to as the Howick Falls Gorge Walk, begins near the bottom of Falls Drive and winds through indigenous riparian forest for roughly an hour. I recommend wearing boots with aggressive tread because the mist from the 95-meter drop keeps the rocks near the splash pool perpetually slick and covered in thin moss. Standing at the bottom provides a visceral experience of the thundering water that you simply cannot get from the railed platform above. It is also a prime spot for birding, where you might spot the African Black Duck or the elusive Nerina Trogon in the canopy.
Roughly 15 kilometers north of the town center lies Karkloof Falls, which actually exceeds Howick Falls in height with a 105-meter drop. The Karkloof Nature Reserve surrounds this area and features some of the best-preserved mist-belt forests in South Africa. Unlike the urban setting of the main Howick Falls, Karkloof feels isolated and rugged. The reserve is a hub for mountain biking, featuring over 100 kilometers of maintained trails that host the annual Karkloof Classic. For those who prefer a higher vantage point, the Karkloof Canopy Tour consists of 12 platforms and 10 zip-line slides, the longest being 180 meters, allowing you to glide 30 meters above the forest floor. This perspective is particularly striking during the summer months when the forest is at its most vibrant green.
The Umgeni Valley Nature Reserve sits on the edge of the town and offers a distinct landscape of open grasslands and thorny thickets. It is managed by WESSA, the Wildlife and Environment Society of South Africa, and contains a surprisingly high density of giraffe, zebra, and various antelope species like nyala and eland. The road into the valley is steep and winding, which can be taxing on smaller vehicles, but the payoff is a series of quiet picnic spots along the river. I have found that the best time for photography here is early morning when the valley mist begins to burn off, revealing the orange hues of the sandstone cliffs. Entrance fees are currently around R50 per person, though you should verify the latest rates at the gate house as they occasionally adjust for seasonal maintenance.
On August 5, 1962, South African police flagged down a car driven by Nelson Mandela, who was posing as a chauffeur at the time, leading to his 27-year imprisonment. Today, this exact spot on the R103 is marked by one of the most sophisticated sculptures in the country. Designed by artist Marco Cianfanelli, the installation consists of 50 charcoal-colored steel columns that appear as a random cluster until you reach a specific point 35 meters away, where they align to form a perfect portrait of Mandela. The visitor center and the museum, known as the Long Walk to Freedom, provide a chronological journey through the struggle against apartheid. The museum entrance fee is approximately R100 for adults, and the site usually operates from 9:00 AM to 4:00 PM daily. The walk from the museum to the sculpture is intentionally long and exposed to the elements to evoke a sense of the journey Mandela endured.
Midmar Dam sits just seven kilometers from the Howick town center and serves as the primary water source for much of the province. Its capacity exceeds 235 million cubic meters, making it a massive playground for sailing, jet-skiing, and fishing. The dam is most famous for hosting the Midmar Mile, which is recognized by Guinness World Records as the largest open-water swimming event in the world. During the event in February, over 13,000 swimmers descend on the dam, turning the quiet reserve into a hive of activity. If you visit outside of this peak window, the eastern shore is a peaceful place for a braai or to watch the sunset over the water. There is a small entrance fee for the Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife section of the dam, which also contains a small game park where you can see red hartebeest and black wildebeest from your vehicle.
Howick serves as the southern gateway to the Midlands Meander, a collection of over 150 artisans, cheese makers, and craft studios. This route was established in 1985 by local artists who wanted to lure people off the main highways and into the countryside. The town itself is home to several antique shops and the Howick Museum, which houses artifacts from the Anglo-Boer War and early colonial life. I find that the best way to experience this is to drive the R103 northward, stopping at the various potteries and leather workshops that line the road. Many of these studios are attached to the artists' homes, offering a rare look at the creative process in a rural setting. It is worth noting that many of these smaller shops close by 4:30 PM, so starting your loop in the morning is essential if you want to see more than a few locations.
The falls are most impressive during the summer rainfall months between December and February when the Umgeni River is at its highest volume. During the dry winter months of June and July, the flow can decrease significantly, sometimes reduced to a thin ribbon of water. If you visit immediately after a heavy summer thunderstorm, the water often turns a deep muddy brown due to silt runoff from upstream.
Adult entry to the museum and the sculpture site is roughly R100, while children and seniors receive discounted rates. These funds go toward the upkeep of the educational exhibits and the maintenance of the grounds. There is no charge to park your vehicle in the secure lot provided, but tipping the car guards a few Rand is standard local practice.
Swimming in the pool is not recommended due to strong undercurrents near the base of the 95-meter drop and the presence of urban runoff in the water. Furthermore, the local Zulu community considers the pool a sacred site inhabited by the Inkanyamba, and out of respect for local customs, visitors should refrain from entering the water. Stick to the designated hiking trails and viewing areas for your own safety and to respect the cultural significance of the site.
Access to the sculpture is managed through the main visitor center, so you generally need to pay the full admission price to reach the path leading to the artwork. The sculpture is positioned at the end of a long walkway that is part of the integrated museum experience. Occasionally, the site hosts outdoor events or markets where access rules might vary, but for a standard visit, plan on paying the entrance fee to see the portrait alignment.
The main viewing platform overlooking the 95-meter drop is free and accessible to the public at all times. It is located at the end of Falls Drive, which is lined with various craft stalls and cafes. While the view is free, the area is a popular spot for informal traders, so expect to be approached by vendors selling beadwork and wooden carvings.