Cinema Impero Asmara: Eritrea's Art Deco Architectural Icon

Cinema Impero stands at the eastern end of Harnet Avenue as the largest theater built in Asmara during the Italian administration in 1937. It serves as the primary visual anchor for the city's UNESCO World Heritage status—inscribed in 2017—representing the peak of Art Deco design in East Africa. While many colonial-era buildings in the city have fallen into disrepair, this cinema remains remarkably intact and functional, providing a window into the ambitious urban planning that once earned Asmara the nickname Piccola Roma.

Architectural Significance of the 1937 Landmark

Designed by architect Mario Messina, the building is a masterclass in the Streamline Moderne style, which was a later branch of the Art Deco movement. Unlike the whimsical, decorative flourishes of Parisian Art Deco, the aesthetic here is rigorous and vertical. The structure was named to commemorate the conquest of Ethiopia and the brief proclamation of the Italian Empire, a historical weight that the building still carries in its massive, imposing proportions.

The Facade and Porthole Design

The most recognizable feature of the cinema is its facade, which is punctuated by forty-five circular porthole lamps. These lights are arranged in three vertical columns of fifteen, framing the central signage where the name Cinema Impero is spelled out in bold, sans-serif lettering. I find that the building takes on a completely different character at night—if the city's power grid allows the neon and porthole lights to flicker on, the sidewalk transforms into a scene from a 1930s film set.

Mario Messina's Modernist Vision

Messina avoided the traditional curves favored by his contemporaries at the Fiat Tagliero building, opting instead for a series of recessed vertical ribs that draw the eye upward. The entrance is guarded by several pairs of heavy wooden doors, each fitted with large semi-circular handles. When both doors in a pair are closed, these handles meet to form a perfect circle—a small but deliberate detail that most visitors miss while rushing inside to escape the midday heat. The symmetry of the exterior is almost aggressive, intended to project a sense of permanence and order during a period of intense political expansion.

Visiting Cinema Impero Today

Asmara sits at an elevation of 2,325 meters, which means the air is thin and the sun is exceptionally bright. This makes the cool, dim foyer of the Impero a welcome retreat for travelers walking the length of Harnet Avenue. The building does not function like a modern multiplex; don't expect a website or an online booking system. Instead, the daily schedule is usually pinned to a wooden board near the entrance, written by hand or printed on simple paper.

Access and Interior Atmosphere

While the cinema primarily shows digital projections of international films today, the auditorium itself remains a relic. The original tiered seating—often covered in red velvet that has faded over eighty years—can accommodate roughly 1,800 people, though the balcony is often the best place to sit for a full view of the interior plasterwork. The walls are decorated with relief carvings of lions and palm trees, motifs that were designed to blend Italian Fascist symbolism with African imagery. Admission for a screening typically costs between 10 and 20 Eritrean Nakfa, which is essentially the price of a cup of coffee at one of the nearby Italian-style espresso bars.

Photography and Local Etiquette

If you want the best photographs of the foyer's terrazzo floors and vintage projection equipment, try to arrive around mid-morning. The staff are generally used to architectural enthusiasts and will often let you wander the lobby for ten minutes without a ticket if you ask politely—though a small tip or a genuine interest in the upcoming film schedule goes a long way. Photography inside the auditorium during a screening is strictly discouraged, as the cinema remains a primary social hub for locals. Watching a Premier League football match here is often more energetic than any movie, with the cavernous hall echoing the cheers of hundreds of fans.

Frequently Asked Questions

What are the typical opening hours for Cinema Impero?

The exterior is viewable at any time, but the foyer generally opens around 10:00 AM for those wanting to check schedules or look at the architecture. Screenings usually begin in the late afternoon, around 3:00 PM or 6:00 PM, depending on the length of the feature.

How much does it cost to watch a movie at Cinema Impero?

A standard ticket for a film screening costs approximately 10 to 20 Eritrean Nakfa, depending on the seat location and the popularity of the film. Balcony seats sometimes command a slight premium but offer significantly better views of the Art Deco ceiling details and original plasterwork.

Is it possible to take an interior tour of the cinema?

There are no formal guided tours, but the cinema is a public venue that you can enter by purchasing a movie ticket or asking the gatekeeper for permission during quiet hours. Most visitors find that spending 30 minutes in the lobby and auditorium is sufficient to appreciate the Mario Messina design and the 1930s-era fittings.

What is the best time of day to photograph the facade?

Late afternoon provides the most flattering light as the sun begins to drop behind the buildings on Harnet Avenue, highlighting the texture of the stucco. If you are lucky enough to be there on a night when the 45 porthole lamps are illuminated, that is the definitive shot of Asmara's modernist legacy.

Does the cinema still use its original 35mm film projectors?

While the original projection equipment is still physically present in the building and serves as a historical curiosity, most modern screenings use digital DVD or file projections. The transition was necessary due to the difficulty of sourcing physical film prints in Eritrea, though the vintage machines remain visible in the projection booth and foyer areas.