Medebar Market Asmara: Recycling History in a 1914 Caravanserai

Medebar Market operates as an industrial-scale recycling center located inside a former caravanserai built around 1914 in northern Asmara. Hundreds of metalworkers salvage scrap material here, turning everything from oil barrels to discarded car parts into functional household items and agricultural tools. The site sits at an elevation of approximately 2,325 meters, which means the physical exertion of walking through the dense smoke and heat can feel more intense than at sea level. Most visitors arrive via a fifteen-minute walk from the city center, following the road past the Great Mosque.

The Industrial Evolution of a 1914 Caravanserai

From Camel Trains to Metal Scrap

The structure was originally designed to house camels and traders arriving from the lowlands, providing a secure perimeter for regional commerce during the Italian colonial era. Today, the central courtyard no longer hosts livestock but instead serves as a massive sorting floor for aluminum, steel, and copper. Workers use basic tools to flatten corrugated iron or extract copper wiring from old electronics, creating a percussive atmosphere that characterizes the northern district. It is a rare example of a colonial utility building that has retained its original commercial function while completely shifting the nature of its goods.

The Craft of the Mogogo Oven

One of the primary products manufactured at Medebar is the Mogogo, a traditional Eritrean clay oven used for baking injera. While the base is clay, the metal components—including the firebox and chimney—are hammered out from salvaged oil drums or scrap sheeting. Watching a craftsman shape a perfectly circular lid from a rusted piece of industrial waste provides a clear view into the local economy’s reliance on resourcefulness. Each oven represents hours of manual labor, yet they are sold at prices affordable for local families, often ranging from 500 to 1,500 Nakfa depending on size.

Navigating the Sensory and Regulatory Environment

Securing the Photography Permit

Taking photos inside the market is not as simple as pulling out a smartphone, as local authorities are highly protective of the site's image. You must obtain a photography permit from the Ministry of Information or the tourism office in central Asmara before arriving. This document usually costs between 10 and 50 Nakfa depending on your status and the current regulations, and the guards at the entrance will likely ask to see it. It is often better to visit the Ministry a day in advance to avoid delays on the morning of your visit, as the office can be slow to process paperwork.

Managing the Chili Dust and Noise

Beyond the metalwork, a significant portion of the market is dedicated to grinding spices, particularly Berbere. The airborne chili dust is incredibly potent—a light scarf over the nose and mouth is the only way to prevent constant sneezing. The noise is equally taxing, as dozens of hammers strike metal simultaneously within the echo chamber of the old stone walls. Bringing earplugs might seem excessive, but if you plan to spend more than an hour observing the artisans, your ears will appreciate the protection from the relentless ringing. The north entrance tends to be less crowded with heavy carts—a detail most guides overlook—making it a safer entry point during peak mid-morning hours.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I get to Medebar Market from central Asmara?

The market is located about 1.5 kilometers north of the Cathedral of Asmara and is easily reachable on foot. You can walk north along Harnet Avenue and continue past the mosque or take a local taxi for roughly 50 Nakfa if you prefer to save your energy for the market walk.

What are the best hours to visit for photography?

Light is best in the early morning between 8:00 AM and 10:00 AM when the sun is low and the workshops are most active. Most craftsmen take a break during the hottest part of the midday, so activity levels and the photogenic smoke from the forges drop significantly between 12:00 PM and 2:00 PM.

Is it safe to walk around Medebar Market alone?

Asmara is generally one of the safest capitals in Africa, and Medebar is no exception for solo travelers who remain alert. You should however remain aware of your surroundings to avoid walking into the path of heavy metal being moved or getting too close to the sparks from welding torches which are often used without screens.