Hiking to Asheton Maryam: Lalibela's Highest Rock-Hewn Monastery

Asheton Maryam Monastery is a high-altitude rock-hewn church sitting 3,150 meters above sea level on the ridges of Mount Abuna Yosef. Reaching this 13th-century site requires a separate entry fee of 20 to 30 USD and a steep trek from the town of Lalibela. While the monolithic churches in the town center receive the most attention, this mountain sanctuary offers a distinct perspective on the geological and spiritual isolation favored by the Zagwe dynasty. The name Asheton translates roughly to St. Mary's Perfume, a reference to the sacred atmosphere local worshippers associate with the site.

Navigating the High-Altitude Trek from Lalibela

Trail Difficulty and Physical Preparation

The ascent from Lalibela typically takes between two and three hours of active climbing depending on your pace and acclimatization to the thin air. You will gain roughly 500 meters in elevation from the town center, moving through scrubland and over volcanic basalt ridges that can become slippery during the rainy season from June to August. I find that the afternoon light hits the canyon walls with a richer orange hue than the morning sun, though you must start the return journey before 5:00 PM to avoid descending in the dark. Proper hiking boots are essential because the loose scree on the upper sections of the trail can easily cause a twisted ankle for those wearing simple sneakers.

Transport Options and Local Logistics

Those who prefer to avoid the full hike can hire a 4x4 or a local bajaj to reach a small car park situated higher up the mountain. From this drop-off point, the walk is reduced to a thirty-minute steep climb, but it still demands significant effort due to the 3,150-meter altitude. Hiring a mule costs approximately 1,000 to 1,500 ETB and provides a practical alternative for anyone feeling the early effects of altitude sickness. I suggest taking a mule not just to save your legs, but because it allows you to observe the surrounding mountain landscape and chat with your guide without constantly fighting for breath. Most guides in town will quote a price for a half-day trip that includes their services and the mule hire, but the entrance fee to the monastery must almost always be paid directly to the priest at the top.

Architectural Features and Sacred Relics

The Semi-Monolithic Design of King Nakuta La'ab

Historical records and oral traditions attribute the construction of the monastery to King Nakuta La'ab, who reigned between 1215 and 1255 as the nephew and successor of King Lalibela. Unlike the perfectly free-standing monoliths like Bet Giyorgis, Asheton Maryam is a semi-monolithic structure carved into the face of a vertical cliff. The interior is relatively plain, with columns and arches that appear more rugged and less refined than the churches in the valley below. This architectural simplicity highlights the functional nature of the site as a retreat for contemplation rather than a display of royal grandeur. The view from the church platform is perhaps the primary draw, offering 360-degree panoramas of the Lasta Mountains that make the town of Lalibela look like a collection of tiny circular huts.

Ancient Manuscripts and Ecclesiastical Art

The resident priest often brings out the monastery's collection of treasures for visitors, including heavy processional crosses made of brass and silver. One of the most significant items is an ancient illuminated Bible made of goat-skin parchment, featuring vibrant mineral pigments that have remained surprisingly vivid for centuries. These manuscripts are not kept behind glass but are part of the living liturgy of the church. You should expect to remove your shoes before entering the inner sanctum, as is custom in all Ethiopian Orthodox spaces. The quietude here is a sharp contrast to the crowded church squares in town, especially if you visit outside of the major January festivals.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is the entrance fee included in the main Lalibela churches ticket

No, you must pay a separate entrance fee of approximately 20 to 30 USD per person to the monks at the monastery entrance. This fee helps support the resident clergy and the maintenance of the mountain path, so ensure you carry enough cash in either USD or equivalent Ethiopian Birr. It is advisable to ask your guide for the current exchange rate and official price before leaving town as rates can fluctuate.

How long does the entire trip to Asheton Maryam take

A standard round trip on foot from Lalibela town takes about five to six hours including time spent exploring the monastery and resting. If you use a vehicle to reach the high car park, the duration is shortened to roughly three hours. Most travelers find that starting at 8:00 AM allows them to return to town in time for a late lunch.

Can I visit the monastery without a guide

While the trail is visible, hiring a local guide is highly recommended to help navigate the rural paths and facilitate communication with the priests. Guides also provide security and help explain the complex 13th-century history that you might otherwise miss. They can also assist in arranging a traditional coffee ceremony at a local farmhouse along the route which is a highlight for many visitors.

What is the best time of year to hike to the monastery

The best months for the trek are from October to March when the sky is clear and the mountain landscape is still green following the summer rains. During these months, the visibility across the Lasta mountain range is at its peak, and the trails are dry and safe. Avoid the peak of the rainy season in July and August as the steep paths become dangerously muddy and clouds often obscure the panoramic views.

What should I bring for the hike

You should bring at least two liters of water, high-protein snacks, and a hat to protect against the intense high-altitude sun. Even if the weather feels warm in Lalibela, the temperature at 3,150 meters can drop quickly if clouds move in, so a lightweight windbreaker or sweater is necessary. Small bills in Ethiopian Birr are also useful for tipping the mule handlers or the children who occasionally offer to help with the climb.