Feeding the Wild Spotted Hyenas of Harar Jugol Ethiopia

Harar sits at an elevation of 1885 meters in the eastern highlands of Ethiopia where the nightly hyena feeding ritual occurs just after dusk. The most prominent feeding site is located outside the Fallana Gate, one of the five original entrances to the UNESCO-listed Harar Jugol. This practice began in the mid-20th century—specifically around 1955—as a way to keep wild hyenas from attacking livestock within the city walls during periods of drought. Today the event serves as a specialized cultural display that remains unique to this specific walled city.

While many travelers expect a highly commercialized show, the reality is far more stripped-back and visceral. The feeding typically commences between 18:30 and 19:30 depending on when the hyenas emerge from the surrounding hills. Visitors usually pay a fee ranging from 150 to 200 ETB to the Hyena Man for the demonstration, though prices are subject to change and should be confirmed upon arrival. It is often more rewarding to arrive twenty minutes early to watch the animals slowly gather in the darkness just beyond the reach of the city lights.

Locating the Hyena Feeding Sites Outside Harar Jugol

The Fallana Gate and Erer Gate Locations

There are two primary locations where you can witness this interaction, with the Fallana Gate site being the most frequented by international travelers. The second site near the Erer Gate provides a different atmosphere and often feels less staged because it lacks the floodlights found at the main location. I found the Erer Gate site to be preferable for photography because the shadows are deeper and the lack of crowds makes the proximity to the predators feel much more immediate. Most bajaj drivers in the city know both locations well, but you should specify which gate you prefer or they will default to the most popular one.

Harar Jugol was inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2006, and its walls historically protected the inhabitants from the surrounding wildlife. These gates serve as the threshold between the dense urban grid of nearly 100 mosques and the open bush where the hyenas dwell. Walking to the gates from the center of the old city takes about fifteen minutes, but taking a bajaj is safer after dark when the hyenas are already active in the streets. These animals are surprisingly integrated into the town and it is not uncommon to see them slipping through the specialized holes in the city walls designed specifically for their passage.

Timing Your Arrival for the Best View

Getting to the site by 18:15 ensures you see the transition from day to night as the hyenas begin to call to each other from the scrubland. The Hyena Man usually arrives with a basket of meat scraps and begins calling the animals by name—a detail that emphasizes the multi-generational bond between his family and the hyena clans. If you arrive too late, the feeding may already be finished as the animals tend to disperse once the meat is gone. The peak of the interaction usually lasts about thirty minutes before the hyenas wander off into the dark alleys of the outskirts.

Understanding the Ritual and Interaction Safety

The Role of the Hyena Man

The current practitioners are often the sons or apprentices of the original Hyena Men who started the tradition decades ago. They use a specific set of high-pitched whistles and calls to signal to the hyenas that the feeding is about to begin. The meat is often held on a short wooden stick or even between the teeth of the feeder to demonstrate the level of trust and control established over the years. While the animals appear tame, they are still wild predators capable of significant force—a fact the feeders respect by maintaining a calm and assertive posture throughout the session.

Socially the hyenas are viewed as the city's natural sanitation system because they consume organic waste left outside the walls. There is also a spiritual dimension to their presence involving the annual Ashura festival where the hyenas are fed porridge to predict the upcoming year's harvest. If the hyenas eat the porridge greedily, it is seen as an omen of prosperity for the people of Harar. This deep-seated cultural acceptance explains why the animals are tolerated rather than feared by the local population.

Practical Tips for Participatory Feeding

If you choose to participate in the feeding, the Hyena Man will typically place a stick in your hand or mouth and lure the animal to take the meat from the other end. Keep your movements slow and avoid looking the hyenas directly in the eyes for extended periods as this can be perceived as a challenge in canine body language. The fur of the hyenas is surprisingly coarse and they often smell strongly of the wild—an olfactory detail that most videos fail to convey. It is also wise to wear closed-toe shoes since the feeding ground is often dusty and shared with several large animals moving quickly around your feet.

Bringing a headlamp or a camera with good low-light capabilities is essential because the lighting at the gates is minimal. Avoid using high-intensity camera flashes repeatedly as this can startle the animals and disrupt the flow of the feeding. Most visitors find that ten to fifteen minutes of participation is plenty, leaving the rest of the time to simply observe the social hierarchy of the hyena pack. The younger, lower-ranking hyenas often wait on the fringes while the dominant individuals take the first offerings from the Hyena Man.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the best time of year to visit the hyena men in Harar?

The dry season between October and March is the most reliable time for visiting because the paths to the gates remain clear and the animals are more likely to come to the feeding sites. During the rainy season, heavy downpours can delay the feeding or make the ground outside the walls extremely muddy. Visiting during the Ashura festival provides the most significant cultural context for the ritual although the city becomes much more crowded.

Is it safe for tourists to hand-feed the hyenas?

Safety is maintained by the expertise of the Hyena Man who understands the temperament of each individual animal in the pack. While thousands of tourists have participated without incident, you must strictly follow the feeder's instructions and remain still during the process. These are wild animals with the strongest bite force of any mammal in the region so you should never attempt to pet them or feed them without the professional present.

How much should I expect to pay for the hyena feeding experience?

A standard contribution for watching the show is approximately 150 to 200 ETB per person as of early 2024. If you want to take professional photos or have a more private session, the price may increase through negotiation with the feeder. It is helpful to carry small denominations of birr because the Hyena Men rarely have change for large 200-birr notes during the evening sessions.

How do I get to Harar from Addis Ababa to see the hyenas?

The most efficient way is to fly from Addis Ababa to Dire Dawa and then take a one-hour taxi or shared minibus for the remaining 55 kilometers to Harar. Alternatively, a long-distance bus from the capital takes approximately ten to twelve hours depending on road conditions and checkpoints. Most travelers find that a two-day stay in Harar is sufficient to see the hyenas and explore the 82 mosques within the old city walls.