A Guide to the Mombasa Tusks on Moi Avenue

The Mombasa Tusks stand as four intersecting aluminum arches over Moi Avenue, originally built in 1952 to mark the visit of Princess Elizabeth to the coastal city. Locally known as Pembe za Ndovu—Swahili for elephant tusks—the monument is a primary landmark that signifies the entrance to the heart of the business district. When viewed from the correct angle, the two pairs of arches form the letter M, a deliberate design choice to represent the city of Mombasa.

Historical Context of the Elephant Arches

The structure has undergone significant physical changes since its initial construction in the early 1950s. While the current arches are metallic and sturdy, the first version was a temporary installation made from wood and canvas, designed to span what was then known as Kilindini Road. This original gateway was erected by the British colonial administration specifically for the royal motorcade, providing a ceremonial path for the future Queen as she traveled from the airport to her residence at the Mombasa Yachting Club.

Commemorating the 1952 Royal Visit

Princess Elizabeth arrived in Mombasa during a period of heavy colonial history, just days before she received news of her father’s death while at Treetops Hotel in central Kenya. The tusks were not meant to be permanent features at that time, but they quickly gained popularity among local residents and business owners. Companies began using the arches as a backdrop for advertisements, and the site became a natural gathering point for public announcements. This unexpected cultural integration convinced the municipal council that a more lasting version was necessary for the city's identity.

Expansion and Material Changes in 1956

A second royal visit in 1956 by Princess Margaret prompted the refurbishment and expansion of the monument. During this period, the road was widened into a dual carriageway to accommodate increasing traffic, requiring a second pair of arches. The council replaced the rotting wood and canvas with weather-resistant aluminum, ensuring the structure could withstand the high humidity and salty air typical of the Indian Ocean coast. These aluminum versions are what visitors see today, having been repainted and repaired several times, including a major facelift in 2017 sponsored by a local cement manufacturer.

Visiting Logistics and Photography Advice

There is no entrance fee to see the monument because it spans a public thoroughfare that remains open 24 hours a day. Travelers often assume that because it is a famous site, there will be a designated pedestrian zone, but the tusks actually sit above one of the busiest roads in the city. Navigating the area requires careful attention to the steady stream of tuk-tuks, matatus (local minibuses), and private vehicles that pass through the arches every few seconds.

Best Vantage Points and Lighting

Most people attempt to stand in the middle of the road for a centered shot, but this is dangerous and often results in a rushed, low-quality photograph. A much more effective strategy is to use the sidewalk of Uhuru Gardens, the small park situated directly opposite the tusks. From the park's benches, you can capture the symmetry of the arches without obstructing traffic. The early morning hours, specifically between 7:00 AM and 8:30 AM, provide the best lighting because the sun sits low enough to illuminate the white paint of the tusks without creating harsh overhead shadows.

Navigating the Surrounding Moi Avenue District

The area surrounding the monument serves as a central hub for visitors heading toward the Old Town or Fort Jesus, both of which are roughly 1.5 kilometers to the east. While the tusks are the main draw, the nearby Uhuru Gardens offer a rare patch of green space where you can escape the heat for a few minutes. You will find small vendors nearby selling fresh coconut water (madafu) and roasted maize, which provides a more authentic experience than the western-style cafes found further down the street. It is also worth noting that the National Museums of Kenya technically oversees the site—while casual photography is encouraged, they require a specific permit and fee for commercial filming or professional photo shoots.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is there an entrance fee to see the Mombasa Tusks?

No payment is required to view or photograph the monument as it is located on a public road. You can walk along the sidewalks of Moi Avenue and take photos at any time without a ticket or permit.

What are the Mombasa Tusks actually made of?

The current arches are constructed from aluminum that has been coated in white weather-resistant paint. Although they are designed to look like real ivory, they are entirely metallic and were built to withstand the coastal humidity and heat.

When is the best time of day to visit for photos?

Early morning or late afternoon is ideal to avoid the harshest tropical sun and the peak of midday traffic congestion. The site is illuminated at night, making it possible to capture long-exposure shots of car lights passing under the arches.

How far are the tusks from the Old Town and Fort Jesus?

The monument is approximately 1.5 to 2 kilometers from the entrance of the Old Town district and Fort Jesus. It is a 20-minute walk or a very short five-minute ride in a tuk-tuk, making it easy to combine these attractions into a single morning itinerary.

Can you climb the monument to get a better view?

Climbing the arches is strictly prohibited and physically dangerous due to the constant flow of traffic beneath them. There are no stairs or platforms for viewing; the monument is meant to be appreciated from the ground or while driving through.