Exploring Moyenne Island: The World's Smallest National Park

Moyenne Island operates as a strictly protected sanctuary within the Ste Anne Marine National Park, requiring a 250 SCR entry fee for international visitors. This 0.099-square-kilometer granite outcrop sits just 4.5 kilometers off the coast of Mahe and represents one of the few places in the Seychelles where giant tortoises roam entirely free without enclosures. The island follows a rigid conservation mandate, meaning there are no hotels or permanent residents, ensuring the environment remains much as it was decades ago.

Logistics and Arrival at Moyenne

Boat Access and Entrance Fees

Accessing the island usually involves a short boat ride from Victoria or Eden Island — many local operators bundle this into a larger tour of the Ste Anne Marine National Park. Most independent travelers negotiate a private water taxi, though the most cost-effective method is joining a catamaran excursion that includes snorkeling stops at nearby reefs. The 250 SCR landing fee is often not included in the tour price, so carrying cash in local currency or a credit card is necessary when stepping onto the small wooden pier. Visitors should aim to arrive by 10:00 AM because the humidity becomes significantly more taxing by noon, especially on the uphill sections of the perimeter trail.

Navigating the Perimeter Trail

The perimeter trail circles the entire island in about 45 to 60 minutes, offering clear views of the surrounding turquoise waters and the neighboring islands of Round and Long. I recommend walking the trail in a counter-clockwise direction; this allows you to tackle the steeper, sun-exposed granite steps early while you still have the most energy. The path is well-marked but can be slippery after a tropical downpour, so sturdy sandals are a better choice than flip-flops. Along the route, small observation points provide glimpses of the shallow coral gardens that define the marine park boundaries.

The Legacy of Brendon Grimshaw

From Editor to Island Owner

The story of Moyenne changed forever in 1962 when Brendon Grimshaw, a British newspaper editor, purchased the overgrown rock for £8,000. By hand, Grimshaw and a local man named Rene Antoine Lafortune planted over 16,000 trees to restore the native bird population and clear away invasive scrub. His refusal to sell the island to hotel developers eventually led to its designation as a national park in 2012, just before his death. Visitors can still see his humble home and the graves of both Grimshaw and his father, located near the center of the island under the shade of ancient mahogany trees.

Giant Tortoises and Flora Conservation

Grimshaw’s primary focus remained the Aldabra giant tortoises, which he began breeding to ensure a stable population away from the threats of the mainland. These creatures can live for over 150 years and often weigh up to 250 kilograms — watching them navigate the steep granite slopes is a slow-motion marvel. While they are generally docile, travelers must not feed them anything other than the vegetation provided by the island wardens during specific times. The island flora includes endemic species like the coco de mer, though the specimens here were planted later rather than occurring naturally as they do on Praslin.

Hidden History and Legends

The Pirate Graves and Haunted Lore

Deep within the island interior, two stone graves marked with simple crosses are said to belong to 18th-century pirates. Legend suggests that these pirates buried treasure worth millions of pounds here and killed two of their own so their spirits would haunt the site and guard the gold. While modern excavations have never revealed any treasure, the site remains a popular stop on the walking path for those interested in Indian Ocean folklore. The atmosphere in this section of the woods feels noticeably cooler and more hushed (likely due to the dense canopy cover rather than spectral presence).

St. Anne Marine Park Biodiversity

Beyond the history, the waters surrounding Moyenne are part of the oldest marine reserve in the Seychelles, established in 1973. Snorkeling near the main landing beach often reveals parrotfish, rays, and small reef sharks darting through the seagrass. The visibility varies depending on the tide, but the north side usually offers the clearest water for those looking to swim before heading back to the mainland. Most boat tours stay for roughly three hours, which provides ample time to complete the loop, visit the tortoises, and grab a quick drink at the Jolly Roger bar near the pier.

Frequently Asked Questions

How much does it cost to visit Moyenne Island?

International visitors must pay a landing fee of 250 SCR, which contributes to the maintenance and conservation efforts of the island. This fee is separate from the cost of the boat transport from Mahe or the Ste Anne Marine Park entry fees.

How many giant tortoises live on the island?

There are currently over 120 Aldabra giant tortoises roaming freely across the island without any fences or enclosures. They are part of a long-term breeding program initiated by the former owner, Brendon Grimshaw.

Can you stay overnight on Moyenne Island?

No, there is no accommodation on the island as it is a protected national park and sanctuary. All visitors must arrive by boat during the day and depart before the park closes in the late afternoon.

How long does it take to walk around the island?

The main perimeter trail is approximately 1.5 kilometers long and takes between 45 and 60 minutes to complete. This timeframe allows for photography stops and a visit to the historic pirate graves located along the path.

Is there a place to eat or drink on the island?

The Jolly Roger bar and restaurant near the landing pier serves simple snacks, drinks, and occasional Creole buffet lunches for tour groups. It is advisable to bring your own water if you plan on doing the full perimeter hike to stay hydrated.