Prison Island- Travel Tips

What to See, How to Plan & Tours

The Ultimate Guide to Prison Island (Changuu), Zanzibar

Floating just 5.6 kilometers (3.5 miles) northwest of Stone Town, Prison Island—locally known as Changuu Island—is one of Zanzibar’s most intriguing landmarks. While its dramatic name suggests a history of incarceration, the reality is a fascinating blend of colonial ambition, public health crises, and unique wildlife conservation. Whether you are a history buff, a nature lover, or simply looking for a turquoise escape from the bustling alleys of Stone Town, this guide covers everything you need to know about visiting this Indian Ocean gem.

The Allure of Changuu: More Than Just a "Prison"

Most visitors arrive expecting a grim tour of dungeons, but Changuu is surprisingly lush, serene, and teeming with life. To truly appreciate the island, one must look past the name and understand the layers of history beneath the coral rags.

From Rebellious Slaves to Quarantine Station: The True History

The name "Prison Island" is something of a misnomer. While a prison complex was indeed constructed here in 1893 under the orders of the British First Minister Lloyd Mathews, it never housed a single prisoner. Instead, the island was repurposed before the prison could open.

In the 19th century, Zanzibar was a major hub of trade, which unfortunately brought waves of cholera, yellow fever, and bubonic plague. To protect the main island, Changuu was transformed into a quarantine station for East Africa. Ships arriving from infected ports were required to stop here, and passengers were screened at the medical center. For decades, the "prison" cells served as hospital wards and quarantine dormitories, saving Stone Town from devastating epidemics.

The Giant Aldabra Tortoises: Meeting Zanzibar’s Oldest Residents

Today, the island’s most famous inhabitants are the Aldabra Giant Tortoises. These are not native to Zanzibar; the original four tortoises were a gift from the British Governor of the Seychelles in 1919.

The colony thrived and now numbers over a hundred. Some of these gentle giants are believed to be over 190 years old, making them some of the oldest living creatures on the planet. Visitors will notice numbers painted on their shells—these help the caretakers track their age and health. Walking among these prehistoric-looking reptiles, feeding them spinach provided by the sanctuary, and watching them lumber through the shade is a humbling experience that connects you to a slower, ancient rhythm of life.

Beyond the Shells: Peacocks, Dik-Diks, and Colonial Ruins

While the tortoises steal the show, the island's ecosystem is diverse. As you wander the forest trails, keep an eye out for peacocks displaying their vibrant feathers near the old ruins. You may also spot the shy Suni antelope or dik-diks darting through the underbrush. The island is also home to a variety of butterflies and seabirds that nest in the indigenous trees, making it a surprisingly rich spot for wildlife photography.

Planning Your Visit to Prison Island (Logistics)

Reaching Changuu is easy, but prices can vary wildly depending on how you book. Here is how to navigate the logistics like a local.

How to Get There: Private Boat Negotiation vs. Tour Packages

You do not need to book an expensive online tour to visit Prison Island. The most authentic and cost-effective method is to hire a local dhow captain directly.

The Launch Point: Head to the beach fronting Forodhani Gardens or near the Tembo House Hotel in Stone Town. You will see dozens of captains with small motorized dhows.

The Negotiation: A private boat for a return trip typically costs between $30 and $40 USD per boat (not per person), depending on your negotiation skills and the season. If you are a solo traveler, you can often wait a few minutes to join a group and split the cost.

The Journey: The boat ride takes approximately 20 to 30 minutes. The seas can be choppy, so if you are prone to seasickness, ask for a larger boat or sit near the stern.

Entrance Fees, Timings, and the Best Time to Beat Crowds

Once you land on the island, there is a separate entrance fee to enter the tortoise sanctuary and historical area.

Entrance Fee: Approximately $4 - $5 USD (payable in Tanzanian Shillings or USD).

Opening Hours: Daily from 9:00 AM to 4:15 PM.

Best Time to Visit: The island gets crowded between 10:00 AM and 1:00 PM as tour groups arrive. For a peaceful experience, aim to take the first boat out at 9:00 AM or visit in the late afternoon around 3:00 PM, when the light is golden and the day-trippers have left.

The Nakupenda Sandbank Combo: A Perfect Day Trip Itinerary

To make the most of your boat rental, consider combining Prison Island with a visit to the nearby Nakupenda Sandbank. This vanishing island (visible only at low tide) offers pristine white sands and crystal-clear waters.

A typical "Safari Blue" style combo involves visiting Prison Island in the morning for history and tortoises, followed by a seafood barbecue lunch on Nakupenda Sandbank. If you arrange this with a beach captain, expect to pay around $60 - $80 USD for the boat, depending on lunch inclusions.

What to Expect: A Step-by-Step Island Experience

Once your dhow beaches on the white sands of Changuu, here is how to structure your time.

The Tortoise Sanctuary Encounter: Feeding and Conservation Rules

Your first stop will likely be the sanctuary. Caretakers will hand you a branch of fresh spinach. It is crucial to follow the rules: do not sit on the tortoises and stroke their necks gently only if they seem receptive. The oldest tortoises move slowly, but their powerful jaws can snap through a cabbage stalk (or a finger) instantly, so keep your hands safe while feeding them. Take a moment to read the information boards detailing the breeding program which has successfully repopulated the species.

Exploring the "Prison" Buildings and Mathews' Architecture

After the sanctuary, hike up towards the "Prison" ruins. The structure, built in coral stone with heavy wooden doors, is remarkably well-preserved. You can walk through the former quarantine wards and see the iron rings where restraints might have been attached—though they were rarely used. The architecture is a testament to General Mathews' vision, blending British military utility with Zanzibar's Swahili style. Part of the complex has been converted into a bar and restaurant, where you can grab a cold drink and look out over the channel back toward Stone Town.

Snorkeling the Fringing Reef: Equipment and Water Safety

Before heading back, take a dip in the ocean. The beach facing Stone Town has a small fringing reef. While it doesn't rival Mnemba Atoll for biodiversity, you can still spot colorful starfish, zebra fish, and sometimes ray species in the shallows.

Pro Tip: Rent snorkeling gear in Stone Town before you leave, as the equipment available for rent on the island can be worn out or overpriced. Be mindful of sea urchins in the rocky areas; wearing water shoes is highly recommended.