Prison Island- Travel Tips

What to See, How to Plan & Tours

Floating just 5.6 kilometers northwest of Stone Town, Prison Island—officially known as Changuu Island—is a paradox wrapped in turquoise waters. Its name conjures images of incarceration and gloom, yet today it stands as one of Zanzibar’s most tranquil sanctuaries, famous for its ancient reptilian residents rather than convicts.

Whether you are a history buff fascinated by the Swahili Coast’s complex past or a nature lover eager to snorkel in the Indian Ocean, this small coral islet offers a perfect half-day escape. This comprehensive guide moves beyond the standard brochures to give you the deep history, conservation facts, and practical logistics you need for a flawless visit.

To understand the soul of the island, one must look past its popular nickname. The crumbling coral-rag walls you see today tell a story of disease, commerce, and control—but surprisingly, not of criminal punishment.

The "Prison" That Never Was: A Quarantine Station Story

In 1893, Lloyd Mathews, the First Minister of Zanzibar, purchased the island and constructed a prison complex intended for violent criminals from the mainland. However, the cells never held a single prisoner.

By the time construction was finished, the region was gripped by fears of yellow fever and bubonic plague. The British colonial administration repurposed the facility into a quarantine station for East Africa.

For decades, ships arriving in Zanzibar were required to stop at Changuu, where passengers were screened and housed for 1-2 weeks before being allowed into Stone Town. The "prison" walls served to keep sickness in, not criminals.

A Darker Legacy: The Rebellious Slave Connection

Before the British intervention, the island held a grimmer purpose. In the 1860s, the first Sultan of Zanzibar, Majid bin Said, gifted the island to two Arab slave owners.

They used the isolation of Changuu to detain rebellious enslaved people preventing their escape before they could be sold at the notorious Stone Town slave market. This brief but heavy chapter remains a somber undercurrent to the island's scenic beauty.

Today, the true owners of the island are the Aldabra Giant Tortoises (Aldabrachelys gigantea). These prehistoric-looking giants can weigh up to 250kg and are one of the longest-living creatures on earth.

A Diplomatic Gift: The Origin of the Colony

The colony’s history is as fascinating as the island itself. They are not indigenous to Zanzibar. In 1919, the British Governor of the Seychelles gifted four Aldabra tortoises to Zanzibar.

These four rapidly multiplied, with the population reaching roughly 200 by the mid-20th century. Tragically, in the following decades, theft for the exotic pet trade and food decimated their numbers.

A major conservation effort in the 1990s, supported by the World Society for the Protection of Animals, rebuilt the population. Today, the sanctuary is a protected environment where you can see tortoises ranging from hatchlings to elders over 150 years old.

Conservation and Responsible Interaction

Visiting the sanctuary allows you to walk amongst these gentle giants. Visitors are often given spinach leaves to feed them, an experience that allows for incredible photos and connection.

• Tip: Approach slowly. While they are docile, they are wild animals. scratching their neck (which they love) is generally permitted, but never sit on a tortoise.

Their shells contain nerve endings and are part of their skeleton; sitting on them causes pain and stress.

Once you’ve paid your respects to the elders, the rest of the island offers distinct tropical pleasures.

Snorkeling the Coral Gardens

The waters surrounding Changuu are part of a protected marine conservation area. Just off the small white-sand beach, a vibrant coral reef awaits. Unlike the busy beaches of Nungwi, the snorkeling here is relatively calm.

Expect to see:

• Colorful starfish (often Blue Linckia)
• Zebra fish and Moorish Idols
• Clownfish in anemones

The water is shallow for a long stretch, making it excellent for beginners. However, beware of sea urchins in the rocky areas—water shoes are highly recommended.

Exploring the Colonial Ruins

The old quarantine hospital and the prison structures have been partially restored, with some areas converted into a bar and restroom facilities.

A wooden bridge juts out over the water, offering a photogenic view back toward Stone Town. Take a walk past the "prison" buildings into the forested interior to spot the island's other residents: a flamboyant population of peacocks and the shy, tiny dik-dik antelopes.

A trip to Prison Island is easy, but a few insider tips can save you money and hassle.

Getting There: Private Dhows vs. Tour Operators

You have two main choices to reach the island:

• The DIY Method (Cheapest): Walk to the shore near the Forodhani Gardens or the Old Fort in Stone Town. You will be approached by boat captains. A private boat typically costs $30–$40 USD per boat (not per person), making this ideal for groups or couples. The ride takes 20–30 minutes.
• Organized Tours (Easiest): Agencies sell this trip for $40–$60 USD per person, often including hotel pickup and snorkeling gear. This is convenient but significantly more expensive.

Costs and Entrance Fees

Apart from the boat ride, there is an island entrance fee (conservation fee) which is usually paid upon arrival at the island's jetty.

• Entrance Fee: Approximately $4–$8 USD (often payable in Tanzanian Shillings or USD). Ensure your boat captain clarifies if this is included in your negotiated price (usually it is not).

Best Time to Visit (Beating Crowds & Tides)

• Morning (08:00 – 10:00 AM): The best time. The water is calmest for the crossing, and you will arrive before the large tour groups that descend around 11:00 AM.
• The Tide Factor: Try to visit during high tide or mid-tide. At distinct low tide, the swimming area recedes significantly, exposing rocky coral flats that are difficult to walk on.

By understanding its layered history and respecting its giant inhabitants, your visit to Prison Island becomes more than just a photo op—it becomes a step back into the rich, resilient tapestry of Zanzibar.