Champ de Mars: The Southern Hemisphere’s Oldest Racecourse

Champ de Mars in Port Louis stands as the oldest horse racing track in the Southern Hemisphere, having officially opened on June 25, 1812. This 1,298-meter oval circuit hosts the majority of the island’s horse racing events between March and early December, drawing crowds that can exceed 50,000 during major cup days. It occupies a unique physical space at the base of the Moka Mountain Range, specifically sheltered by the thumb-shaped peak of Le Pouce. While many tourists prioritize beaches, this inland stadium offers a gritty, authentic look at Mauritian social life that the resorts cannot replicate.

Historical Evolution of the Port Louis Track

From Military Parade Ground to Turf Club

Before the horses arrived, the French military used this flat expanse as a training ground and parade field. Colonel Edward Alured Draper founded the Mauritius Turf Club shortly after the British takeover, viewing horse racing as a way to reconcile the French settlers with the new British administration. The first race meeting took place on June 25, 1812, making it the second oldest club of its kind in the world. You can still see the statue of Draper near the entrance, though most bettors walk past it without a second glance. The track layout is notoriously tight, which favors agile horses over those with massive strides—a technicality that often catches out international punters.

Draper's legacy remains firmly rooted in the soil here. His vision transformed a dusty parade ground into a social hub that survived two centuries of political change.

The 1968 Independence Landmark

Beyond the gambling and the sport, the track serves as a massive civic monument for the local population. This specific patch of grass was where the Union Jack was lowered and the four-colored Mauritian flag was raised for the first time on March 12, 1968. If you visit on a non-race day, the area feels surprisingly quiet, almost like a ghost town with empty stands and weathered concrete. However, the presence of the Malartic Tomb—a memorial to a former French governor—reminds visitors of the site's colonial layers. I suggest walking to the center of the track during the week; you get a panoramic view of the Port Louis skyline that is far superior to the one from the Waterfront. It is a stark contrast to the Saturday chaos.

Essential Racing Day Logistics and Culture

Navigating the Racing Calendar and Ticketing

The racing season follows the Mauritian dry and early summer months, usually starting in late March and wrapping up by the first weekend of December. Most events happen on Saturdays, starting around 12:00 PM and ending by 5:00 PM. Entry to the public stands, often referred to as the plain, is typically free for everyone. If you prefer a bit of shade and a better vantage point, look for tickets to the Loges or private boxes, which can range from 1,000 to 5,000 Mauritian Rupees depending on the prestige of the race. The Maiden Cup in September is the peak of the season—the energy is electric but the crowds are thick enough to make movement difficult.

While the Mauritius Turf Club managed the grounds for over two centuries, recent administrative shifts mean People’s Turf PLC now handles many operations, a distinction that matters if you are looking for official race cards. It is wise to check the weekly schedule on official social media pages on Friday evenings as last-minute cancellations due to track conditions are common. I have found that the less famous race days in June or July offer a much more relaxed environment for those who actually want to see the horses up close without the crushing weight of the Maiden Cup crowds.

Practical Tips for Betting and Transport

Getting to the track is straightforward if you are already in the capital, though the traffic on race days is a nightmare. I recommend arriving via the Victoria Urban Terminal and walking the 15 minutes through the city streets instead of taking a taxi to the gate. Once inside, you will find bookmakers lined up under the grandstands using old-fashioned whiteboards to update their odds. It is a cash-heavy environment—though some digital apps are appearing—so bring enough small bills if you intend to participate. The street food vendors outside the gates sell some of the best dholl puri in Port Louis, often fresher and cheaper than the snacks sold inside the VIP areas.

For a better perspective of the race finish, head to the upper tiers of the public stand rather than staying at ground level. The crowd becomes quite animated during the final 200 meters, and the noise of thousands of people screaming in Mauritian Creole is an experience you won't find at a beach resort. Watch your pockets in the densest parts of the crowd, as the excitement provides a perfect distraction for opportunistic petty theft.

Frequently Asked Questions

When does the horse racing season take place?

The season typically begins in March and runs until early December. Races are held almost every Saturday, with a few major trophies occasionally scheduled for Sundays.

Is there a specific dress code for spectators?

Casual clothing is acceptable for the general public areas and the center of the track. If you have booked a seat in the VIP stands or private boxes, men are usually required to wear a collared shirt and trousers, while flip-flops are strictly prohibited.

How much does it cost to attend a race?

Access to the general public standing area is usually free of charge. Reserved seating in the grandstands or access to the exclusive club areas typically costs between 1,000 and 5,000 Mauritian Rupees.

How do I reach the racecourse using public transport?

Yes, the track is within walking distance of the main Port Louis bus stations, including the Victoria Urban Terminal. It takes about 10 to 15 minutes to walk from the city center to the Shakespeare Street entrance.