Exploring Pemba Island: Diving and Clove Plantations

Pemba Island covers approximately 988 square kilometers and sits 50 kilometers north of Zanzibar's main island, Unguja. The island serves as the primary source of cloves for the archipelago, accounting for 70 percent of total production while remaining significantly less commercialized than its southern neighbor. Travelers typically reach the island via a 30-minute flight from Stone Town or Dar es Salaam, landing at the Chake Chake airport which serves as the central hub for the island's 400,000 residents. The topography here is distinct from the rest of the region—steep hills rise to a maximum elevation of 95 meters, creating a hilly terrain that earns it the historical Arabic name Al-Jazira Al-Khidra, or the Green Island.

Unlike the flat coral limestone of Unguja, Pemba features deep valleys and fertile soil that support dense vegetation and massive fruit tree groves. Most visitors concentrate their time in the northern peninsula or around the central town of Chake Chake, but the most authentic experiences often happen along the dirt tracks leading to the eastern coast where the tourism footprint is almost non-existent. Prices for local transport can vary wildly, so expect to pay around $50 for a private taxi between the southern port of Mkoani and the northern hotels, though the local dala-dala minibuses offer the same route for a fraction of that cost.

Marine Life and Coastal Geography

The Coral Reefs of Misali Island

Misali Island is a protected conservation area located off the western coast of Pemba, accessible by a 45-minute boat ride from Chake Chake or Wesha. The marine park surrounding this uninhabited islet contains 42 different genera of coral and over 300 species of fish, making it one of the most biodiverse diving locations in East Africa. Because the island is a no-take zone for fishermen, the size and density of the reef fish—including massive groupers and schools of barracuda—are noticeably higher than in the unprotected waters near the mainland. Entry fees for the Misali Island Marine Conservation Area are generally around $10 to $20 for international visitors, though these rates are subject to change and should be confirmed at the Mkoani or Chake Chake tourism offices.

The tides at Misali are particularly strong, with a vertical range of up to four meters during spring tides that can create challenging currents for novice snorkelers. I recommend timing your visit for the falling tide when the water is pulled off the shallow reef flats, concentrating the marine life in the deeper lagoons and making the coral heads easier to observe from the surface. The western side of Misali features a dramatic wall that drops from 5 meters down to nearly 40 meters, providing a perfect site for drift diving where the current does most of the work for you.

Deep Water Diving and Visibility

The Pemba Channel separates the island from mainland Tanzania and reaches depths of over 800 meters, which brings nutrient-rich, cool waters to the island's western shelf. This proximity to the deep ocean ensures exceptional visibility—often exceeding 30 or 40 meters—and attracts large pelagic species like manta rays, whale sharks, and occasionally even humpback whales during their migration season from July to September. The North Horn is perhaps the most famous dive site, where the oceanic drop-off meets the coastal reef, creating a point where white-tip and grey reef sharks frequently gather to hunt in the current.

Shore diving is practically non-existent here because the island is surrounded by dense mangroves or steep cliffs rather than the continuous sandy beaches found elsewhere. Most dives take place from traditional wooden dhows or modern speedboats operated by the handful of high-end resorts scattered across the island. The water temperature remains consistently warm, fluctuating between 25 and 29 degrees Celsius throughout the year, so a 3mm wetsuit is usually sufficient even for deep dives. Divers should keep in mind that the nearest decompression chamber is on Unguja, so conservative dive profiles are the standard protocol for local operators.

Inland Resources and Local Economy

Ngezi Forest Reserve Biodiversity

Located in the northwestern corner of the island, the Ngezi Forest Reserve covers 1,470 hectares and represents one of the last remaining stands of indigenous forest that once covered much of Pemba. This primary forest is a mix of lowland greenery and riverine trees, providing a habitat for the Pemba Flying Fox—a giant fruit bat with a wingspan of over one meter that was once nearly extinct. Guided night walks in Ngezi are particularly useful for spotting the endemic Pemba Scops Owl or the shy blue duiker, a tiny antelope that hides in the thick underbrush. The entrance fee for international tourists is roughly $10, and you are required to take a local ranger who can point out the medicinal uses of various endemic plants.

The forest path leads eventually to Vumawimbi Beach, a stunning stretch of white sand that remains completely undeveloped because it sits within the protected zone. Unlike the beaches near the resorts, Vumawimbi has no facilities, so travelers must bring their own water and supplies for the day. Walking through the forest to the beach offers a rare glimpse into the island's pre-colonial environment, where the canopy is so thick that it remains cool even during the peak of the afternoon heat.

The Clove Industry and Harvesting

Pemba’s economy remains firmly rooted in agriculture, specifically the cultivation of cloves which were introduced to the island in the early 19th century. During the harvest months between July and January, the scent of drying cloves hangs over almost every village as the flower buds are spread out on mats in the sun to turn from crimson to deep brown. A single mature clove tree can produce up to 30 kilograms of spices per season, and the island's production is so significant that it dictates the global market price for the spice. Visitors can easily arrange tours of the government-run clove oil distillery near Chake Chake to see how the stems and lower-quality buds are processed into essential oils for export.

Beyond cloves, the island is a major producer of coconuts, mangoes, and bananas, which are sold at the vibrant morning market in Chake Chake. The market is the best place to observe the local culture without the filter of the tourism industry—expect to see piles of fresh octopus, hand-woven baskets, and the specific colorful kangas worn by the local women. It is a functional space rather than a souvenir market, so while you won't find many trinkets, you will find some of the best street food on the island, including Pemba pizza and spicy bean soups. Merchants here are generally polite but less accustomed to tourists than those in Stone Town, so a polite "hapana asante" (no thank you) is usually enough to decline an offer without the persistent haggling found in more crowded areas.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I travel between Zanzibar and Pemba Island?

Domestic airlines like Auric Air and Coastal Aviation operate several flights daily between Stone Town and Chake Chake, with tickets typically costing between $80 and $130 for a one-way journey. There is also a ferry service from the Mkoani port to Malindi in Stone Town, but the schedule is often unreliable and the crossing can take five to eight hours depending on the sea conditions. Most travelers prefer the flight because the views of the turquoise reefs from a low-altitude Cessna are worth the extra expense.

When is the best time to visit Pemba for diving?

The primary diving seasons run from July to September and from December to February when the seas are calmest and visibility is at its peak. During the long rains of April and May, many resorts close down entirely because the heavy rainfall can limit visibility and make the dirt roads to the remote northern areas impassable. For those interested in seeing humpback whales, the August to September window offers the highest probability of sightings in the Pemba Channel.

What is the entry fee for the Ngezi Forest Reserve?

International visitors are required to pay an entrance fee of approximately $10 to $20 USD, which usually includes the cost of a mandatory local guide. These guides are essential for navigating the forest trails and identifying endemic species like the Pemba Flying Fox or the various rare orchids found in the canopy. The reserve is open daily from early morning until sunset, but night walks must be booked at least 24 hours in advance through the forest headquarters.

Is malaria a concern on Pemba Island?

Malaria is present in the Zanzibar archipelago, and Pemba is no exception, so taking a preventative prophylactic is highly recommended by most health organizations. Mosquito activity is highest at dusk and dawn, so wearing long sleeves and using repellent with at least 30 percent DEET is a practical necessity. Most hotels provide mosquito nets over the beds, but it is wise to check for any gaps or holes in the netting upon arrival to ensure a bite-free night.

Are there ATMs available on Pemba Island?

ATMs are extremely limited on the island and are almost exclusively located in the main town of Chake Chake. Most machines only accept Visa cards and frequently run out of cash or experience power outages, so it is vital to carry enough Tanzanian Shillings or USD for your entire stay. While high-end resorts will accept credit cards, they often apply a surcharge of 5 percent or more to the total bill, and local shops or transport providers are strictly cash-only.